STAN’S PICK FOR AUGUST 2012…

The weather here in the Pacific Northwest is trying to get warm for the summer. I’m hoping for a good August and, being the optimist I am I’m selecting another white as my pick of the month.

2011 Milbrandt “Traditions” Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley, Washington)  … $9.99

I have long been a fan of Milbrandt, as they produce some outstanding wines for the money. However, this is the first effort I have tasted from new wine maker Joshua Maloney and if this is an indicator of what is to come, we are in for some special wines.

Fragrant pear notes come through on the nose along with notes of perfectly ripe apples. Honey and apples penetrate the palate backed by a wonderful crisp acidity. There is a nice mineral element that comes through on the mid-palate joined by citrus and pear notes that linger on the finish. This baby is only ten bucks, you should be able to get your hands on some easily, and it is stellar. Talk about a great wine for oysters, mussels, clams, Asian fare or just for enjoying on a warm summer day.  90 points

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A LOT OF WASHINGTON THIS WEEK…

It is the state I reside in and I am very proud of the wines that are produced here. No longer a small player in the wine world, Washington State is the second largest wine producing state behind California. Some of the best wines in the world come from here and my favorite wine so far in 2012 is a red blend produced by Northwest Totem Cellars out of Woodinville WA called Qone. That is no small task considering all the great wines I have already tried this year.

So, how did the Washington wines fair this week in the Moleskine…. Let’s find out.

2008 Zero One Vintners “Sauce” Red (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $11.99

Actually this one made it as my “Pick of the Month” in May so you know I liked it.

At first glance, you may not take this wine too seriously. It has a picture of a group of young, nicely dressed men and women standing with a city as the background. I think they are shooting for the younger crowd, but I am not sure if they hit their intended target. Thank God you can’t judge a picture by the cover, because behind this peculiar label is an awesome bottle of wine.

Aromas of sweet black currants, damp wood and an interesting beef element. Don’t let the nose fool you however because on the palate you get what I would call as close to an Amarone as you can get without being one. Black currants up front backed by dark cherries, chocolate and mocha. A nice bright core backs the fruit with a hit of tobacco and currants on the mid-palate. This wine has a nice long finish of black currants, spice, chocolate and minerality backed by fresh tannins. Nice complexity, excellent balance and good structure make for an awesome bottle of red. For twelve bucks I believe it offers quite a bit of interesting juice. So, forget the label and buy it for what it is…Great wine. 80% merlot, 10% cabernet franc, 6% syrah & 4% cabernet sauvignon. 90 points

2009 Zero One Vintners Wild Sky Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, Washington) …

I don’t often use this descriptor on a wine but it seems appropriate for this cab. It is very pretty on the nose with perfumed notes of blackberries, currants and dark cherries. There is a little alcohol that comes through along with hits of vanilla and licorice. Chocolate dust comes in spades on the front of the palate backed by black currants on the mid-palate flowing nicely into a long finish showing some mineral components. Good structure and balance on this cab with some grip to it.  90 points

2009 Waters “Loess Vineyard” Syrah (Walla Walla, Washington) … $44.99

Let me say right at the get go, that this syrah is worth every penny they are asking for it! One of my favorites so far.

Aromas of bacon fat, char, black plums, boysenberries and a smokey edge. I think I could smell this wine all day. Big and seductive on the palate with notes of black licorice, boysenberries, smoke and bacon. Tobacco leaf and pepper show up on the mid and finish which is long and fresh. Powerful yet balanced. Nice balance of acidity and fruit never getting heavy in the mouth. This baby will age nicely over the next ten to fifteen years.  95 points.

2011 Red Diamond Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) … $8.99

I’m putting this in Washington wines because Red Diamond is a Washington winery. Obviously they contracted some malbec from Argentina for this bottling and unfortunately I am not sure which winery down there did it for them. At any rate, this is a nice effort for nine bucks.

Dusty minerals come through on the nose driven by red cherries and underlying currants. (I’m not trying to be funny with that one) Plush dark fruit on the front of the palate. A hit of vanilla and mocha on the mid-palate. Smooth, silky tannins with some tar, tobacco and leather notes showing up on the medium finish.  88 points

2009 Columbia Crest Les Chevaux Red … $13.99

Aromas of ripe blackberries, tobacco leaf, vanilla and currants. Plush dark fruits on the front side with some spice, vanilla and mocha showing up on the mid-palate and into the medium length finish. Just a touch on the soft side and lacks complexity. An easy drinker that should go over well with most consumers.  87 points

2009 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $16.99

I really wanted to taste this one because we sell a boat-load at the store.

Interesting on the nose with notes of cherries, mint, beef jerky and underlying red currants and cassis. Notes of dark plums and cherries on lush, silky tannins. Hits of chocolate and tobacco on the mid-palate flowing into a smooth, smooth finish with just a touch of leather. I certainly understand why it sells. Silky smooth and delicious. Personally I found it a little boring, but that’s just me.  87 points

2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Reserve Syrah (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $23.99

Aromas of smoked boysenberries, black plums and just a whiff of stink. This baby is loaded with notes of smoke, tar, currants and plums backed by a nice core of spice. Flows nicely with good balance into a finish of tobacco leaf, tar and black currants with some wood tannins showing up. Spice lingers for some time. This is an intense syrah!  89 points

2007 Stella Maris Red (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $29.99

This is a Bordeaux style red that more then likely has a splash of syrah, but I could not find the exact blend anywhere. Aromas of smoke and black currants with hits of tar and alcohol. Plush tannins back notes of black currants and black plums. Notes of mocha and chocolate show up on the mid-palate with a hit of spice that flow into a long finish of tobacco leaf, blueberries, pencil lead and spice. There is a spike of alcohol that also shows up on the backside. 89+ points

2008 Beresan Winery “The Buzz” Red  Yellow Jacket Vineyard (Walla Walla, Washington) … $19.99

Interesting on the nose with notes of tomato stem, tea leaf, cassis and perfumed blackberries. Very fresh on the palate with notes of cassis and pencil lead (Mint). Almost a mint tea element shows up on the mid supported by a herbaceous core. Fresh tannins on the finish with notes of currant and mint lingering. Very Bordeaux like and this will age nicely over the next ten to fifteen years. 89+ points

2009 Balboa Estate Syrah (Walla Walla, Washington) …$24.99

Aromas of bacon fat & plums with hits of brown sugar and black cherries with a little char action going on. Fresh tannins on the palate with notes of blueberries and cherries from beginning to mid-palate. Some spices show up on a somewhat thin finish of tobacco leaf and currants. For the price, I was a little disappointed in what this syrah had to offer.  86 points

2008 Beresan Winery Carmenere (Walla Walla, Washington) … $28.99

There is a couple of problems with this wine right from the start. There are not many consumers who understand what carmenere is, and this is a boat-load of money to ask someone to experiment with. Another words… I want to try a carmenere, but I don’t want to spend thirty bucks and be disappointed.

Carmenere is in many ways like a cab franc from Chinon. Very herbaceous. This is no exception. Aromas of Tomato stem, green bell peppers and red currants. Very minty on the palate with notes of cassis up front. Fresh tannins with a hit of mocha and vanilla on the mid-palate. Finishes with notes of tar, spice and black currants that linger for some time with hints of tomato stem. This carmenere never goes to the Chinon level of herbaceous and it is surprisingly smooth on the finish.   89+ points

2o10 Arbor Crest Sauvignon Blanc (Bacchus Vineyard, Washington) … $8.99

Interesting aromas of yeast, melon, grass and nuts. There is a creamy element on the palate with a background of brightness. Peach and grass notes show up on the mid-palate leading into a finish of peach pit and minerals. For nine bucks, this is not bad although it lacks complexity.    88 points

Non-Vintage Arbor Crest Cliff House Red (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $8.99

On the nose, aromas of perfumed spiced red plums, red flowers, oak and blackberries.Very soft mouth feel, but not flabby. Plums and boysenberries show up on the front of the palate with some hits of black currants. Hits of spice on mid and finish. Some tannins show up on the back end, but this is not an exciting wine, even for the price. Just a little too soft for me.   85 points

2009 Steakhouse Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $9.99

Nice aromas of spicy cherries, currants and sweet menthol. Sweet currants up front flowing into barbecue spices, wood and vanilla. Some leather notes show up on on the medium finish. This cab has nice balance of acidity and fruit and is a pretty good bottle of wine for ten bucks. If you are looking for a cab to have with that grilled steak, this would be a nice choice.  89+ points

2007 Hogue Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope, Washington) …. $20.99

I blew through this wine at the store and for good reason. This is an “Old School” cab showing very dry on the palate.

Aromas of oak and currants. Full on the palate with notes of currants, leather and tobacco leaf dominating. A nice spice hit comes through on a long finish. This cab has good balance and is as I said, on the dry side. This is a refreshing switch from many of the fruit-forward cabs on the shelves. 91 points

The Moleskine is still filled with Washington wines I have sampled, so stay tuned for next week… Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

 

 

 

 

 

 

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SOME NICE WINES THIS WEEK…

As I pointed out last week, some tasting stretches are better then others. Last week was a “Pooper”, but this week was much better. I tasted through quite a few Washington wines in this group, so that is a good thing. Let’s see what I ran across in my Moleskine this week.

2009 Hogue Cellars Red Table Wine (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $6.99

I wanted to taste this red since I have sold a lot of Hogue wines at the store. It is always a good idea to revisit every once in awhile.

Bright on the nose with notes of cassis and cherry with a backdrop of vanilla and hints of currants. Soft tannins back notes of currants and oak. A little mocha and chocolate on the mid-palate that lingers on the finish. This is a simple, light red with some appealing flavors, and a great price. 48% cab, 46% merlot & 6% syrah   85+ points

2008 For A Song “The Score” Merlot (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $10.99

This is very challenged on the nose with alcohol and raisins coming through. There is notable wood notes on this little merlot backed by notes of plum up front and a little mocha action on the mid-palate. A slight tannic grip on the medium finish. A little flabby and boring, even for the price.  84- points

2009 Argento Bonarda (Mendoza, Argentina) … $9.99

This is a wine that gets my attention every time. The bonarda grape reminds me a lot of syrah and this wine proves that point. Perfumed notes of smokey blackberries and black licorice come through on the nose. A nice minerality on the palate with plump notes of blackberries and black tea. It is full on the palate but not juicy. The minerals come through on the finish backed by notes of red plums and black tea. The wine finishes dry, making it a great match for grilled meats. Not exactly like a syrah, but close enough to be a distant relative.  89+ points

2011 Le Grande Caillou Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays (Loire Valley, France) … $9.99

Aromas of sulphur, melon and gooseberries with a slight hit of grapefruit. Notes of white grapefruit, gooseberry and minerals hit the front of the palate. The acids are not bright, but they are penetrating, pushing the fruit and mineral notes across the palate into a lingering, mineral driven finish. What a nice little sauvignon blanc for the warm summer weather and oysters on the half shell.  89 points

2007 Haystack Needle “The Eye” Red (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $14.99

Aromas of red flowers, currants, spice and cedar shavings. Nice intensity on the palate with notes of cedar, currants and dark cherries coming through. Good balance with nice acidity making the flavors “pop” on the mid-palate. Nice long finish with a slight grip on it. Sorry, did not write the blend down on this one. Great value.   90 points

2009 Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla, Washington) … $25.99

On the nose, smokey currants and blackberries. Nice balance on this wine with notes of blackberries, currants, minerals and dusty cocoa flavors. Herbal notes come through on the mid-palate leading into a spicy iron element on a long finish. This cab needs some more time in the bottle before it hits it’s peak.  90+ points

2008 PepperBridge Merlot (Walla Walla, Washington) … $56.99

This is a pricey little merlot, but considering the pedigree and quality, it is a pretty good value. Notes of anise, black currants, black cherries and cassis come through on the nose. Mouthwatering acidity backs the notes of cassis and blackberries. Minerals and tobacco leaf penetrate from start to finish joined by leather notes with hits of tannin. Great balance and in need of some time in the bottle.  92 points

2008 PepperBridge “Trine” Red (Walla Walla, Washington) .. $61.99

On the nose this reminded me of boysenberry jam and cherry jam with a hit of vanilla and perfumed red flowers. Herbaceous core on the palate with notes of black tea, cassis and minerals coming through. Some tar notes with a dash of mocha come through on the long finish. This wine is a little tight and will need some time in bottle to come to it’s full potential. Maybe 5 more years.  90+ points

2008 PepperBridge Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla, Washington) … $56.99

Aromas of cherries, currants, vanilla, mocha and hints of anise. Cassis, spice and herbs backed by a bright acidity that is in good balance with the fruit. Hints of mint leaf and green tea come through on a long finish. There is a definite theme with all the PepperBridge wines… Good fruit, solid acids and balance. Not a bad thing, and they will all age nicely. Worth the Dinero.   94 points

Non-Vintage Dibon Cava Brut Reserva (Penedes, Spain) … $9.99

I love the fact that you can pick up a bottle of quality bubbles for ten bucks. This is not uncommon with Cava from Spain. This one is a little challenged on the nose with light aromas of peaches and melon. Green apples all day on the palate with underlying apple skin and peach pit notes. Clean and crisp on the finish with hints of tangerine and lemon. This is a dry Cava and if you like that style, this is one of the best I have tasted in awhile. 88+ points

2010 Comoloco Monastrell (Jumilla, Spain) … $7.99

Aromas of dusty black plums and ripe currants. Sweet tannins wrap around notes of currants and boysenberries. Silky smooth in the mouth with a nice intensity. Fresh on the mid-palate leading into a short finish with hits of tar, tobacco and earth. Nice balance, very smooth, just slightly simple with very little complexity. I think a lot of folks are going to like this one, especially for eight bucks.  86 points

2009 Chateau Blouin Bordeaux (France of course) … $9.99

Aromas of beef, mint, currants and black licorice. Very beefy on the palate backed by notes of currants, mint, earth and herbs with a touch of leather. Good structure, silky tannins and hits of spice on the finish. This is some serious juice for ten bucks. I love finding these little Bordeaux from a classic vintage. They show the vintage quality without the hefty price tag.  89 points

2010 TYDY (Thierry-Delaunay) Sauvingnon Blanc Vin De Pays (Southern France) … $10.99

On the nose you get cut grass, apple skin, white flowers and melon. A little rounder on the palate with notes of melon and grass leading into green apple on the mid-palate. A nice steely edge on the medium to long finish. This is not an acid freak of a sauv blanc, it is on the softer side. Good juice, a little simple but not bad for eleven bucks.  86 points

2010 Fidelitas Semillon (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $18.99

Aromas of sweet white flowers and apricots. (Very nice) Peaches and a fig component hit the front of the palate. Nice pear and mineral edge in the middle leading into a finish of pitted fruits and fig/gooseberry. Nice balance of fruits and acidity with a lingering finish. Nice job Charlie!  90 points

2010 Tertulia Cellars Viognier (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $17.99

Perfumed on the nose with notes of peaches, papaya, licorice and white flowers. This is a fruit medley in the mouth from start to finish. Mango, peach, melon, orange, lime (Froot Loops style). This one is not over-the-top heavy fruit like some viognier can be. It has nice balance and is refreshing.  89 points

2011 Renegade Wine Co. Rose (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $9.99

Aromas of strawberries, cherries, watermelon and a slight hit of rhubarb. Ripe cherries on the palate backed by notes of watermelon and ripe rhubarb. Nice clean finish this rose has a dry backside to it. This is delicious rose with clean fruit but not bone dry. Unfortunately this rose goes fast, I cannot get anymore at the store. If you see it somewhere, snap it up. 88+ points

2010 Kyra Chenin Blanc (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $12.99

Aromas of fennel, banana and apple. Sweet apples up front with some Asian pear thrown in the mid-palate. Nice backbone of acidity and it finishes dry to medium sweet. You don’t see a lot of chenin from Washington which is too bad. Kyra does a nice job with it, and this vintage is one of the best I have seen in the last four years. Perfect for shellfish or Asian fare.  89 points

2009 Vina Salida Tempranillo (Yakima Valley, Washington) … $19.99

I have not tasted a lot of tempranillo from Washington State so I was looking forward to giving this one a try. Very beefy on the nose with perfumed notes of cassis and currants with a touch of black olives and wood. Currants and beef jerky on the palate with an edge of spice. This is a very gamey red with some salty notes coming through on the mid-palate. Mocha and vanilla join the flavors on a long finish with hits of white pepper. Not your usual red and I found it both interesting and good. I also feel that the price is not bad for what you get.  92 points

2010 Fidelitas M-100 Red (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $19.99

I love the nose on this baby. Aromas of blackberry and cherry with hints of bittersweet chocolate. Black cherries and chocolate hit you on the front of the palate with fresh tannins and an underlying citrus element. Good balance with notes of tobacco leaf, black tea and some leather action with hits of black pepper on a long finish. This baby has some lay down time in it. Give it 5 to 8 years and it will flesh out nicely. You might even be able to stretch it to ten years. That is a lot to say for a wine that is only twenty bucks.  91 points

There you have it, another week of tasting and analyzing wines. Remember, the points are for my memory and not a definitive estimation of the wine. They are a personal palate score and if you like my palate choices, then use the points. If not, throw them under the bus. Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

 

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PRICE…SCORES…WHAT’S A CONSUMER TO DO?

Sometimes I feel sorry for the wine consumer who is faced with all the rhetoric being thrown out there by wine writers and bloggers. For instance, take the subject of scoring wines. This has to be one of the favorite and most hotly debated subjects for wine writers to discuss. As a wine steward who sells to the consumer on a daily basis I have to say that most could give a rats ass about scores. Maybe, and I mean maybe I run into one or two customers a month who base their purchasing decision on a score by a wine writer. Those days are gone my friend.

Hats off to Eric Asimov who writes for the New York Times for having the biggest audience in my area. Eric does not score the wines he tries, but he does give his preferences and usually he has a theme and article that goes along with his review of the wines. He also includes a panel of tasters in many instances. That being said, Eric is on the East coast and I am on the West coast. Many of the wines he tries are not available here since they are scooped up by my East coast competition before they have a chance to migrate my way. Another frustration for the consumer. I guess the point of this tirade is that consumers do like to read about wines that are reviewed, it is just that they are not as consumed by scoring wines, and what that implies as wine writers are.

I have stated emphatically on my blog that scores are personal palate preferences of the reviewer. You simply cannot put a numerical value on wine. I write down descriptors of the wines I review and then put a score at the end simply to remind me about how I felt about the wine, not how someone else should feel about it. An “85” point wine may be a “95”point wine to someone else. That is as it should be.

The point debate is good fodder for the wine writers of the world, but for consumers it is simply a lot of words that are very cumbersome and in some case absolutely meaningless.

Recently, I read an article written by Steve Heimoff who is a wine writer and critic for the Wine Enthusiast. He has his own blog where he ruminates on wine and related subjects. He took exception to an article in Forbes Magazine written by Katie Kelly Bell. It is entitled “Is There Really a Taste Difference Between Cheap and Expensive Wine?”.  http://www.forbes.com/sites/katiebell/2012/07/09/is-there-really-a-taste-difference-between-cheap-and-expensive-wines/ . He stated quite emphatically that there is without a doubt a marked difference in quality between an expensive and a cheap wine. http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2012/07/10/cheap-vs-expensive-yes-virginia-there-is-a-difference/

Good for Steve! As a wine writer who is flooded with wine samples and is afforded many opportunities to taste some of the most expensive wines produced out of California and many other areas of the world, he has an upper hand on the average consumer. Of course he is an expert on cheap vs. expensive wines. Or, is he?

This is just another subject that wine writers and critics love to talk about. Can you really tell the difference between a cheap and expensive wine? Many will point out how consumers who were involved in a blind tasting event, picked a cheap wine over an expensive one. Can that be ignored? Absolutely not. On the other hand, many writers like Steve will point out that these events are merely flukes, and that the results are based on human error or lack of experience in wine tasting. I don’t know about you, but I sell to the consumer… Not Steve Heimoff!

That being said, I have tasted many expensive wines some impressive, some not. I can vividly remember tasting a ’47 Petrus that was beyond description. Sexy, ethereal and dreamy. I can also recall tasting a Rioja that went for eleven bucks that was layered with leather, chocolate and black currant notes that I would drink any chance I could get. (And I have!) There is a difference in cost of these wines of about $8,500 dollars. Is one better then the other? Yes. The Rioja will not last 65 years. Like Raqeul Welch, the Petrus got better with age. At the same age, the Rioja might have shown better then the much more expensive Petrus… We will never know.

I have tasted a ’97 Screaming Eagle Cab that did not impress me. I have tasted other cabs from Napa in the hundred dollar or more range that I have dumped down the kitchen sink after half a glass. This is also true of some very inexpensive wines I have tasted. The point I am trying to make here is that you can be disappointed with either expensive or cheap wines. However, it hurts a lot more when it is an expensive wine. Unlike wine critics, you had to pay for the taste or the bottle. Expense does not always equate to quality, and inexpensive does not always mean lower grade wine. I am not in agreement with Fred Franzia who claims that there is not wine out there worth more then ten bucks. I am also not in agreement with Steve Heimoff who claims that expensive wine is better then cheap wine. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

As a consumer, I encourage you to listen to your palate and your budget. Seek out wines you can afford and ask your trusted friend or wine steward for the best values. Don’t worry about price or scores, just look for the best quality-to-price ratio. Cheap, expensive… High score, low score… What really matters is what makes you feel good about what you spent. If you love wine like I do, you just want to enjoy whats in your glass… It’s as simple as that. Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

 

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