PRICE…SCORES…WHAT’S A CONSUMER TO DO?

Posted on July 16, 2012 by Stan The Wine Man

Sometimes I feel sorry for the wine consumer who is faced with all the rhetoric being thrown out there by wine writers and bloggers. For instance, take the subject of scoring wines. This has to be one of the favorite and most hotly debated subjects for wine writers to discuss. As a wine steward who sells to the consumer on a daily basis I have to say that most could give a rats ass about scores. Maybe, and I mean maybe I run into one or two customers a month who base their purchasing decision on a score by a wine writer. Those days are gone my friend.

Hats off to Eric Asimov who writes for the New York Times for having the biggest audience in my area. Eric does not score the wines he tries, but he does give his preferences and usually he has a theme and article that goes along with his review of the wines. He also includes a panel of tasters in many instances. That being said, Eric is on the East coast and I am on the West coast. Many of the wines he tries are not available here since they are scooped up by my East coast competition before they have a chance to migrate my way. Another frustration for the consumer. I guess the point of this tirade is that consumers do like to read about wines that are reviewed, it is just that they are not as consumed by scoring wines, and what that implies as wine writers are.

I have stated emphatically on my blog that scores are personal palate preferences of the reviewer. You simply cannot put a numerical value on wine. I write down descriptors of the wines I review and then put a score at the end simply to remind me about how I felt about the wine, not how someone else should feel about it. An “85” point wine may be a “95”point wine to someone else. That is as it should be.

The point debate is good fodder for the wine writers of the world, but for consumers it is simply a lot of words that are very cumbersome and in some case absolutely meaningless.

Recently, I read an article written by Steve Heimoff who is a wine writer and critic for the Wine Enthusiast. He has his own blog where he ruminates on wine and related subjects. He took exception to an article in Forbes Magazine written by Katie Kelly Bell. It is entitled “Is There Really a Taste Difference Between Cheap and Expensive Wine?”.  http://www.forbes.com/sites/katiebell/2012/07/09/is-there-really-a-taste-difference-between-cheap-and-expensive-wines/ . He stated quite emphatically that there is without a doubt a marked difference in quality between an expensive and a cheap wine. http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2012/07/10/cheap-vs-expensive-yes-virginia-there-is-a-difference/

Good for Steve! As a wine writer who is flooded with wine samples and is afforded many opportunities to taste some of the most expensive wines produced out of California and many other areas of the world, he has an upper hand on the average consumer. Of course he is an expert on cheap vs. expensive wines. Or, is he?

This is just another subject that wine writers and critics love to talk about. Can you really tell the difference between a cheap and expensive wine? Many will point out how consumers who were involved in a blind tasting event, picked a cheap wine over an expensive one. Can that be ignored? Absolutely not. On the other hand, many writers like Steve will point out that these events are merely flukes, and that the results are based on human error or lack of experience in wine tasting. I don’t know about you, but I sell to the consumer… Not Steve Heimoff!

That being said, I have tasted many expensive wines some impressive, some not. I can vividly remember tasting a ’47 Petrus that was beyond description. Sexy, ethereal and dreamy. I can also recall tasting a Rioja that went for eleven bucks that was layered with leather, chocolate and black currant notes that I would drink any chance I could get. (And I have!) There is a difference in cost of these wines of about $8,500 dollars. Is one better then the other? Yes. The Rioja will not last 65 years. Like Raqeul Welch, the Petrus got better with age. At the same age, the Rioja might have shown better then the much more expensive Petrus… We will never know.

I have tasted a ’97 Screaming Eagle Cab that did not impress me. I have tasted other cabs from Napa in the hundred dollar or more range that I have dumped down the kitchen sink after half a glass. This is also true of some very inexpensive wines I have tasted. The point I am trying to make here is that you can be disappointed with either expensive or cheap wines. However, it hurts a lot more when it is an expensive wine. Unlike wine critics, you had to pay for the taste or the bottle. Expense does not always equate to quality, and inexpensive does not always mean lower grade wine. I am not in agreement with Fred Franzia who claims that there is not wine out there worth more then ten bucks. I am also not in agreement with Steve Heimoff who claims that expensive wine is better then cheap wine. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

As a consumer, I encourage you to listen to your palate and your budget. Seek out wines you can afford and ask your trusted friend or wine steward for the best values. Don’t worry about price or scores, just look for the best quality-to-price ratio. Cheap, expensive… High score, low score… What really matters is what makes you feel good about what you spent. If you love wine like I do, you just want to enjoy whats in your glass… It’s as simple as that. Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

 

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A FEW “POOPERS” IN THIS GROUP…

Posted on July 11, 2012 by Stan The Wine Man

I find that occasionally I run into what I call “poopers” or wines that just do not show up. I can remember one two week stretch where I did not taste a single wine that could even be considered above par. That was a bad stretch. This week wasn’t that bad, but I did run into more sub-par wines then what has been the norm lately. Let’s look at what I tasted this week shall we.

2009 Mas de Gourgonnier Le Baux de Provence Rouge (Provence, France) … $21.99

Aromas of eucalyptus, herbs and red flowers with a back edge of cassis. Very Provence like….Surprise! Dark and rustic fruits on the palate backed by loads of minerals and Provincial herbs. Cassis and tobacco leaf notes on a lingering finish. This wine is in-your-face rustic, “old world” in style and is driven by a backbone of acidity. I loved it for it’s charming rusticity, but it will not be for everyone.   88 points

2009 Musella Vigne Nuove Valpolicella Superior (Veneto, Italy) … $20.99

Aromas of cassis, cranberries and anise. This wine has a nice backbone of acidity with notes of blackberries, currants and spice coning through. Nice length on the finish. When I take short notes on a wine like this it usually means I wasn’t blown away for the dollars. Nice wine, just not exciting.  87 points

2008 Clos du Moulin (Medoc, France) … $8.99

Call me weird if you want, but I really like these unclassified country bumpkin Bordeaux. A little rough around the edges and loads of charm.

Notes of cherry, tomato stem and oatmeal on the nose. Notes of blackberry, cassis and leather come through on the front of the palate. Fresh tannins lead into a somewhat short finish with a little leather and cassis action with some tar and dirt thrown in. Love this wine. Can’t help it, especially at this price. 70% merlot & 30% cab.  88 points

2009 Four Vines “The Sophisticate” Zinfandel (Sonoma County, California) … $25.99

Very vibrant on the nose with notes of black raspberry and blackberries. Bold, spicy fruit on the palate with notes of black raspberries, black licorice, mocha and vanilla on the front end and mid-palate. Vibrant backbone on this wine with a long-Ass toe curling finish with a little pepper on it.  Worth every penny.  92 points

2010 Punto Final Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) … $11.99

A little stink on this baby with a little chalky earth and boysenberry on the nose. Fairly intense on the palate with with plum and candied boysenberry notes coming through. The intensity stays from start to finish backed by smooth, structured tannins. Hits of spice and tobacco on a long finish. I find myself getting bored with a lot of the malbec coming out, especially in this price range. However, this one caught my attention.  89+ points

2010 Tinto Negro Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) …$8.99

Aromas of blackberries and minerals with a “grapey” component on the back end along with a hint of green tobacco. Very plush on the front of the palate with dark fruit notes coming through. There is a little alcohol spike on the mid-palate along with a little black olive component that flows into a somewhat short finish of char and black olive. I found this malbec to be  a little boring and close to a “Pooper”.  86+ points

2009 Rigal Malbec (Vin De Pays, France) … $10.99

Aromas of perfumed blackberries, black licorice and dark fruits. Fresh, soft tannins that back up notes of boysenberries, black tea and tobacco. Slight grip on the finish with mouthwatering, tart dark fruits. This wine borders on “flabby” but skirts it by just a thread. There are things I like about this wine, but it just does not deliver what it promises.  84+ points

2009 Nieto Senetiner Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) … $14.99

On the nose you get leather, tobacco, perfumed blackberries and ripe black currants. Black currants penetrate the palate with some interesting marinated spices up front with a little stewed plum element coming through. Finishes with notes of leather, currants and tobacco leaf. Nice balance and structure.  88 points

2010 Tilia Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) … $9.99

This baby has some stink on the nose with restrained aromas of gingerbread and blackberries. Smooth, dark fruits on the front of the palate with a nice chocolate component. Sweet tannins with a hit of spice, currants anise and chocolate on the finish. Well structured wine with nice balance. There are a lot of folks who will like this one.  88+ points.

2007 Kennedy Shah Tempranillo (Rattlesnake Hills, Washington) …$19.99

Aromas of black currants with a little alcohol coming through and notes of perfumed tobacco, red flowers and hits of maple. Big hit of currants and black cherries up front with a nice flow through the mid-palate. There is a slight mineral component that comes through with a finish of spice, anise and a slight grip in the mouth. Nice balance with soft, structured tannins. I love the Kennedy Shah line-up of wines, and this did not let me down.  88 points

2009 Pacific Wine Enterprises, Eye of The Needle “Little Italy” Red (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $14.99

Aromas of orange creamsicle and  raspberry sherbet. Reminds me a little of Juicy Fruit Gum with raspberry as the main component. Very fruit forward on the palate with a raspberry/cherry medley thing going on. This red dries up a bit on the mid and finish with a citrus cherry thing going on backed by fresh, sweet tannins. This is a wine that has “New World” written all over the front side, but finishes “Old World”.  89 points

2009 Line 39 Petite Sirah (North Coast, California) … $9.99

Very bright notes of blueberries and blackberries with hits of anise and oats. Dusty tannins back bright notes of blackberries and currants with underlying vanilla. Smooth creamy finish, this wine is a little one-dimensional but hits the delicious category.  86 points

2010 Mourchon Cotes-Du-Rhone (France) … $12.99

It’s nice to see a little resurgence in the sales of Cotes-du-Rhone in my wine department this year. It has always surprised me that they didn’t do better, since they are blends from the Rhone Valley in France, and blends from California and Washington are the hot ticket right now. A blend is a blend. Right? Anyway, this one unfortunately will not help the cause.

Very stinky on the nose with notes of dark fruits and beef. However, it is hard to get past the poopy nose. Notes of cola, spice black plums and blackberries come through up front with just a hint of spritz. Finishes dry and tight. Very light overall and slightly funky. If you are going to try a Cotes-du-Rhone for the first time, please do not start here.  77 points

2008 Chateau Bonnet Bordeaux, Andre Lurton (France) … $9.99

Here is another blend from France that consists of merlot and cab. Aromas of leather, cherries, earth and hits of red currants. Red cherries on the front of the palate flow into the mid-palate. Light tannins with a little wood and spice on the thin finish. Earth notes hang around the palate from front to finish with a little green twig action. This is a simple little Bordeaux that is o.k. for the price.  86 points

2009 Tamas Double Decker Red (Central Coast, California) … $8.99

I believe it was the ’07 that I went nuts over last time, so I was hoping that this blend would live up to it’s older sibling. A blend of cab, petite sirah and barbera, I found the nose to be very challenged with only slight hits of red currants and blackberries. Big blackberry notes up front on soft tannins. Consistent fruit from start to finish with a nice intensity leading into a medium length finish.

I think a lot of folks will like this one, it’s big and juicy with a nice intensity. The lack of a nose bothered me a bit, and I would have liked a longer finish. However, it is a good wine but not up to the level of the ’07.  87 points

2008 Ventisquero Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley, Chile) … $10.99

Aromas of tomato stems soaked in ripe cherry juice with hints of black currants. Solid fruit on the palate with notes of barbecue spices, dark cherries black currants. A little black olive element shows up on the mid-palate leading into notes of black tea, spice and tobacco leaf with just a slight grip on a long finish.

I am a huge fan of this winery, and this cab is a steal for eleven bucks.  89+ points

2008 Ruffino Il Ducale(Tuscany, Italy) … $19.99

Notes of perfumed cedar, cassis, herbs and a slight stink on the nose. Cherry and red currants on sweet tannins. The wine expands on the mid-palate with notes of leather, cassis and currants that flow into a long pleasing finish. This is a rustic little red with balanced acidity, and enough fruit to keep it interesting. 60% sangiovese, 20% merlot & 20% syrah.   88 points

2010 Matthews Blackboard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $11.99

Notes of red delicious apples and hints of sulfur come through on the nose. This baby is an acid freak on the palate. Very bright with notes of green apples, grass and minerals. Heavy acidity on the finish. This white is a bit awkward and way to tight on the finish to get anything out of it. This is even too much for my “geeky” palate. 78 points

2010 Reininger Helix Chardonnay (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $14.99

Nice light pear and apple notes on the nose backed by hits of ginger and spice. Creamy on the palate with notes of Bartlett pear flowing across the palate into a finish of green apple skins and pear. Nice balance, clean on the palate but not crisp. 88 points

2008 Carpe Diem Chardonnay, Firepeak Vineyard (Edna Valley, California) … $15.99

All the elements of a California chard come through on the nose. Notes of pear, butte, oak and toast. Notes of ripe pear and oak hit you on the front of the palate and stay full from start to finish. There is a core of freshness that shows on the mid-palate leading into a lingering finish of toasty pears and spice. There may be just a little too much oak present for my taste but for those looking for that style, this is a great buy.  88 points

2010 Sainte Eugenie Reserve Corbieres (France) … $16.99

I love the nose on this baby with notes of raspberry, cranberry, black licorice and red flowers. It’s a little tart on the palate, which isn’t a problem for me, but may not be for everyone. Nice bright fruit notes of cranberry and strawberry flow across the palate on smooth, fresh tannins. As it opens up, the wine seems to get a little softer with some cherry notes coming through. This is a killer red for hamburgers or pizza. 40% syrah, 30% carignan & 30% grenache.  89+ points

2009 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Oregon) … $39.99

This is a story about a rep who loves Drouhin pinot, so every time he comes to visit it is no surprise he comes with a sample of this wine. I love this guy and his predictability. That being said, I myself am consistently impressed with this pinot noir. Aromas of bright cherries, black tea and a little perfumed action going on. Bright cherries on the palate backed by notes of black tea with a little white pepper showing up on the long finish. I would say this wine is just a little tight, and needs about three more years in bottle… Then, watch out!  90 points

2010 Decoy (By Duckhorn) Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley, California)… $24.99

Duckhorn is a powerhouse winery out of Napa, so I was looking forward to trying this entry level cab under the Decoy label. Aromas of cassis, black licorice, coffee beans and bittersweet chocolate with a hint of oak coming through. Dark fruits with some green bell pepper thrown in show up on the palate with notes of cassis and oak coming through. Balanced acids and a clean finish. This cab tasted just a little watered down for me and slightly boring. Kind of disappointing for a cab that goes for twenty-five bucks.  83 points

I did a few more reviews then normal this time and I hope I didn’t put you to sleep. I wanted to end it with a “pooper” since that is the title of this tasting report. I hope the next round is a little more successful in finding some nice gems for you to go hunting for. Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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STAN’S PICK FOR JULY 2012…

Posted on July 1, 2012 by Stan The Wine Man

2011 Domaine Fontan Cuvee de Mousquetaires (Cotes de Gascogne, Soutwest France) … $10.99

I am  going to take the dive and pick a white for the month of July. The weather will get warmer (even though it looks doubtful) leading our palates to desire something refreshing and delicious. The above mentioned wine delivers in both categories in a big way. A blend of 59% Colombard, 18% Ugni Blanc, 16% Gros Manseng and 7% Sauvignon Blanc this white is a steal for eleven bucks.

Aromas of gooseberries, grapefruit and white flowers, just smelling it made my mouth water. Racy on the palate with mouthwatering acidity it hits you with white grapefruit, gooseberry and lychee notes that dance across the palate with bold intensity. There is a nice backbone of minerals that penetrate into a long, delicious, dry finish. I am a huge New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc fan and this one will replace any of those this summer for me.

Serve this baby all by itself or with oysters, clams, mussels and even bring it out for that sushi party. I realize it is a mouthful of wine to pronounce, so just remember Domaine Fontan white from France for eleven bucks.  92 points

 

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THE WHITES IGNITE THE MOLESKINE…

Posted on June 20, 2012 by Stan The Wine Man

I am a huge fan of white wines as I believe anyone who claims to love wine should be. However, it is not often that whites dominate my Moleskine for personal high scores.  As we roll into the summer months, white samples seem to flow more readily from the sales forces so it makes sense that I would run across a few more good to great ones then usual. Let’s take a look at what I have run across lately.

2010 Quails Gate Chenin Blanc (Okanagan Valley, Canada) … $13.99

Very Vouvray like on the nose with notes of wet wool and red delicious apples.  Very mineral driven on the palate with notes of crushed rock all day with a back end of celery coming through. Apple skins come through on the finish with some red grape skin action. This producer is very consistent with quality chenin and this is the third vintage that I have loved. Good juice especially if you are a Loire Valley white fan.  91 points

2011 Hestia Cellars Chenin Blanc (Columbia Valley, Washington) … $15.99

A totally different style in chenin from the last one. Aromas of white flowers banana, mangos and hints of apple. Perfumed yet subtle. In the mouth it tastes like apples whipped in a blender with wool socks (Unworn of course). The acidity is bright but not a driving force for the flavors. I found this wine to be just a little boring for my palate. 86 points

2010 Dr. Loosen “Dr. L” Riesling (Mosel, Germany) … $12.99

If you want to get me excited about riesling, this is one that will do it. Aromas of white flowers, peaches and melon that are soft and subdued. Excellent acidity that cuts into the palate with racy flavors of tangerines, peaches and mandarin oranges. There is a hint of creaminess on the mid-palate leading into a dry, long, delicious finish. Mouthwatering riesling that leaves you begging for more. At this price that is not hard to accomplish. 94 points

2009 Eyrie Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, Oregon) … $15.99

This baby is a little challenged on the nose with hints of nuttiness and dust. Figs come through on the front of the palate with notes of apples sneaking in. It seems as if there is some oak present backed by a little grass component. Sweet figs come through on the finish. Interesting gris that could use a little more nose action, but overall I liked it.   88 points

2010 Tabordet Pouilly-Fume (Burgundy, France) … $13.99

Aromas of Red Delicious apples and melons drizzled with honey. This juice is an acid freak on the palate. Notes of kiwi and tart lemon with a grassy finish. The acidity on this baby is mouth puckering and somewhat overbearing. Don’t get me wrong, I like acidity but it can’t overtake the wine. Love the grass on the finish.  84 points

2010 Four Vines Naked Chardonnay (Santa Barbara, California) … $10.99

Naked of course stands for no oak which was a hot ticket a couple of years ago, and is slipping in its’ popularity at least locally. This is a nice example of unoaked chard. Pears all over the nose with hits of apples and butter. Pears, apples and pineapple come through up front with with a creamy almost buttery hit on the mid-palate. Good balance across the palate with a nice creaminess to the tropical fruit finish. This creamy, buttery feel in the palate seems to indicate some malolactic fermentation (ml) but I have been fooled before. At any rate, it is good juice without the oak influence.  89 points

2010 Albert Bichot Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) … $15.99

This is a great example of a chardonnay from Burgundy that won’t require you to take out a loan to get it. Aromas of melon, pears and minerals come through on the nose. Nice balance of acid and fruits with bright notes of pear coming through on the front of the palate. Some nice spice components come through on the mid leading into a long finish featuring notes of grass and minerals with a little white licorice hit. Seriously good French juice for sixteen bucks and will sit in your cellar for a couple of years no problem.  91 points

2008 Domaine Serene “Etoile” Chardonnay (Willamette Valley, Oregon) … $46.99

Aromas of pears and over-ripe golden raisins on the nose. This chard has a nice flow across the palate showing notes of pears, caramel and a little wood. Nice acidity with just a slight alcohol burn on the long finish. I would like this wine a lot more in the twenty dollar plus range because that is what I think it is worth. Good juice but not fifty dollars worth.  88 points.

2010 San Lorenzo Verdicchio “IL Casolare”  (Italy) … $10.99

Apricot, fig and pear on the nose. Toasty pears on the palate backed by notes of apple skins, dried apricots, melon and figs. My notes were sparse on this one which tells me it did not excite me too much. Great price and a nice way to be introduced to Verdicchio if you have not tried it yet.  85 points

2011 Grayson Pinot Noir “Calden’s Vineyard” Block Nine (California) … $12.99

This baby had a lot of stuff on the label and it is only thirteenn bucks, so I was very curious. Very promising on the nose with notes of earth, sulfur and strawberries. (Believe it or not, these are excellent aromas for pinot) Ripe strawberries and dark cherries with an earthy backbone on the palate. A little hit of watermelon on the mid-palate leading into a light finish. Pretty good pinot for the price, but I was hoping for a more solid finish.  87 points

2009 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Oregon) … $51.99

Bing cherries, cranberries and a hit of strawberry jam on the heady nose. Fat on the palate with notes of ripe strawberries and black tea. A little tomato stem comes through on the mid-palate. Nice long finish. This is a “Big Boy” pinot, and it might be too big for those searching out an “old world” style. Love it for what it is!  90 points

2009 P. Ferraud et Fils Morgon “Les Charmes” Beaujolais (France) … $19.99

From “New World” to old in a heartbeat here. Notes of under ripe cherries, lots of raspberries and a little vinegar hit on the nose. Very earth driven on the palate with notes of cranberries, leather and cherries. A little tobacco leaf comes through on a long austere finish. This baby has aging potential and should soften up in a couple  of years. If you have the patience it could pay off.  89 points

’08 Poggio Stella Vino Noble di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) … $15.99

100% sangiovese, I find Vino Noble di Montepulciano to be one of the finer expressions of this grape. Aromas of perfumed cedar, rose pedal and iron. Minerals all over the palate backed by notes of cedar, tart cherries and rose pedal. Iron notes come through on the mid and finish with a little mint action on the finish. This reminded me a lot of a young Barbaresco. Sometimes my palate cries out for this kind of wine with that earthy mineral driven tart cherry action. For the price, this is hard to beat.  90 points

2005  LaFlorita “Laurus” (Tuscany, Italy) … $22.99

Interesting aromas of stewed plums, raisins and minerals with hits of mocha and vanilla and slightly perfumed. (Crazy stuff) The tannins have a grip to them on the palate backed by notes of rose pedal, rusty metal and cassis. There is an interesting ripe fruit element that wants to come through. Metallic flavors hang on the finish. This is Italian Tuscan red all the way and hits the spot.   89 points

2009 Lauribert Cotes du Rhone Rouge (Rhone Valley, France) … $10.99

Light aromas of strawberries and ripe cherries. Plums and cherries on the front of the palate with spice and earth notes on the mid. A nice tannic grip on the medium length finish with hits of white pepper. Nice balance on this wine with a lot of “Old World” action. This is a nice cross-over wine for those who want to be introduced to old world wines from the new world juice. Has enough spice and fruit to satisfy.  80% grenache, 20% syrah.    88 points

2010 Bonny Doon Vineyards “Clos de Gilroy” Grenache (California) … $19.99

Love the nose on this baby with notes of red flowers, strawberries and red plums. Ripe strawberries on the front of the palate backed by notes of anise and spice. Nice flow across the palate with a hit of cassis on the long finish. Nice balance of acidity and fruit making it perfect for grilled meats or pasta with red sauce or simply sipping on the back porch on a warm summer evening. Wine maker Randall Graham shows his skill for making Rhone style reds.   90 points

2010 Los Nevados Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina) … $10.99

Are you getting tired of malbec yet? I’m not if they are interesting and unique from the rest of the vanilla ice cream versions for ten bucks that are flooding the market. This particular malbec falls into the “unique” category for me.

Aromas of blackberries and black licorice with a hit of Vics Vapo-Rub on the backside. Mineral driven on the palate, (which I like) with notes of blackberries, mixed berries backed by notes of white pepper and some herbs on the mid-palate. Long finish with some tobacco notes coming through. This one is a little more complex and interesting then many I have found in this price range.  90 points

Certainly not a bad week for the whites this time around. Summer is here so hopefully I assisted you in finding something to accompany those shellfish or summer picnics and family gatherings. Here’s to drinking good wine and not spending a boat-load of money.  Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

 

 

 

 

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