MY PICK FOR APRIL 2012 …

Posted on April 4, 2012 by Stan The Wine Man

I spend a lot of time trying to find obscure or new wines at a great price that I can feature as my “Pick of the Month”. Every once in awhile as I am trying wines that are very familiar, I am forced by the shear quality and price of the wine to put it out there as my pick. This month I am featuring a wine that has been around a long time (100 years), and is seen in just about any grocery store wine department.

Perhaps you are most familiar with the Spanish red from Miguel Torres that has the plastic bull attached to the neck of the bottle… Sangre de Toro (Bulls Blood). I see it all over the place, and consider it one of the better values for an everyday red. The winery known as Miguel Torres produces a host of wines other then the Sangre de Toro. The wine I am featuring this month is the 2007 Torres Coronas Tempranillo … Catalunya, Spain … $9.99.

Aromas of blackberries, currants and iron (or minerals that remind me of iron) with a sprinkle of herbs and green tea. This is a great nose for a wine that is only ten bucks so I was excited to give it a taste. It did not let me down. Loads of minerals on the palate backed by notes of blueberry, plum and cassis. Nice balance across the palate with a hit of cedar on the mid-palate and finish. The wine has good length as the flavors linger. To have this much going on with some complexity is something to get excited about for ten bucks. 86% Tempranillo & 14% Cabernet Sauvignon.  89 points

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FROM MY MOLESKINE TO YOU…

Posted on April 3, 2012 by Stan The Wine Man

Spring has arrived, and with it a load of wine samples for me to try in hopes that I will do something with them at the store as the busy season approaches. I fully intended this to be a weekly contribution to my blog and for some reason I’m finding it hard to keep up. With all these wines to review, I think it is time for me to stick to my writing schedule.

I am still impressed with the quality of wines across the board. There are still a few bad ones out there, but I am running across them less frequently then in the past. Let’s see what I have tasted these past few weeks.

2008 Olsen Estates Red … Yakima Valley, Washington… 11.99

From what I understand, Olsen Estates Winery is closing it’s doors for good. This is always a sad day, but it also means that many of their wines can be picked up for greatly reduced prices. This little red is one of those deals.

Aromas of earth/forest floor,tobacco, blackberries and black currants. Sweet dark fruit on the front of the palate that stays throughout. Hits of vanilla and tobacco with hints of spice on the mid-palate. Finishes with underlying black currants and spice that lingers. This is a solid wine and worth more then the twelve dollar price tag. If you see some around, snap it up before it is gone for good.  88+ points

2009 Ventisquero Queulat Carmenere Single Vineyard… Maipo Valley, Chile … 14.99

Here is that Ventisquero label again. This winery blows me away, and their carmenere is no exception. Aromas of tomato stem, green bell peppers and under-ripe blackberries. Spicy, dark core of fruit on the palate. Notes of black currants and cassis with hits of tomato stem and green bell peppers. Long finish of dark fruits black tea, tomato stem and tobacco with a black pepper edge. As herbaceous as this wine may sound, and you would expect it out of a carmenere, the dark fruits balance it out. This is a beauty for fifteen bucks. If your local wine merchant is not selling these wines, get on them! It should not be hard to get. For those in Western Washington, Unique Wines is the distributor.  93 points

Non-Vintage Secco Italian Bubbles … Italy … 11.99

Aromas of pear and apple with a hit of minerals. Apples and pears all day in the mouth from start to finish. The bubbles are a little large for me but the wine had a nice mouth-feel. Although done in a brut style, there was just a touch of sweetness. 89 points

2010 Chateau Lestrille Capmartin Entre-Deux-Mers … France … 12.99

Entre-Deux-Mers is a fairly large region in the Southeast of Bordeaux. There are some super good values coming out of this area including this one. Aromas of fig, grass and citrus. Soft mouth-feel with delicious notes of lemon curd, fig and grass that flow seamlessly into a mineral driven finish with just a touch of creaminess.  90 points

2010 Deusa Nai Albarino … Spain … 10.99

This is a classic example of … “Not sure if I wrote it down correctly or not.” This may be a close-out and that is why I cannot find it in the distributor’s catalog. In either case, here are my notes on it.

Light aromas of tangerine, mandarin orange and hints of grass. Nice minerality on the palate backed by perfumed notes of tangerine and mandarin orange the lingers. This will make for a nice spring and summer deck sipping white.  88 points

2009 Cloudline Pinot Gris … Oregon … 10.99

Nice aromas of honey, peach and Red Delicious apples. Creamy on the palate with notes of apple and honey coming through on the front and mid-palate. A nice mineral driven finish with Red Delicious apple on the back end. For the money, this is a killer pinot gris from Oregon.   90 points

Telmo Rodriguez Basa Blanca … Rueda, Spain … 13.99

Made from the verdejo grape, I always find these wines quite interesting and unique. Aromas of burnt match with a backdrop of honey. Nice viscosity on the palate with notes of earth, minerals and lemon rind flowing into notes of apple skin on a medium to long finish. This white is for the adventuresome wine drinker. If you like weird, you will be rewarded.  88 points

2010 Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reserva Chardonnay … Maipo Valley, Chile … 10.99

If you are the mood for some bombastic chardonnay, and you don’t want to spend a ton of money, this should do it for you. Aromas of butter, oak and pears drizzled with honey. Very creamy on the palate with notes of pear and butter up front. The mid-palate turns to butterscotch leading into a finish of pears, butter and hints of oak. I love this wine for what it is… There is no make-up, just big juice for next to nothing.   90+ points

2011 Campuget Costieres De Nimes Rose … France … 9.99

70% syrah, 30% grenache. Aromas of strawberries, rhubarb and a touch of earth. Strawberries and herbs right up front with a nice spice hit on the back end. Raspberries, herbs and anise come through on the mid-palate leading into a dry finish. This rose has a nice minerality to it with delicious and dry fruit. An excellent value. 89+ points

2007 Torres Coronas Tempranillo … Catalunya, Spain … 10.99

Aromas of currants, blackberries and iron (a lot of iron actually) with a hint of herbs. Loads of minerals on the palate backed by notes of blueberries, plums and cassis. Nice balance from front to finish with a little hit of cedar on the medium finish.  I know this label has been around for a long time, but it is nice to rediscover what a great value this wine is.  89 points

2009  Castillo De Monjardin La Cantera Garnacha … Navarra, Spain … 8.99

Interesting nose of green tea, beets and Russet potato skins. The potato skins come through on the front of the palate with creamy notes of blackberries and black plums. Some tannins come through on the finish which is a little thin followed by a late spice hit that lingers on the lips. Very interesting wine and for nine bucks, it’s not bad.  87 points

2008 Altano Duro Red …Portugal … 7.99

Aromas of iron and cassis that are bright on the backside with a hint of vanilla. Bright on the palate with notes of cassis and blueberries with some strawberry coming through.  The tannins hit you on the finish which is a little thin. Not a bad little country wine for eight bucks.   85 points

2010 Tinto Negro Malbec … Mendoza, Argentina … 9.99

Aromas of blackberries and minerals with an interesting grapey component that comes through followed by hits of green tobacco. Very plush on the front of the palate with notes of blackberries and currants. The mid-palate shows a little alcohol spike with notes of black tea coming through. Finishes with hits of brown sugar a little spice and char. A little one-dimensional and soft. Some will like this effort, but with the abundance of choices in this price range with many showing better and more complex I suggest you try something else.  87 points

2007 Watermill Winery Chances “R” Red … Washington … 11.99

This is a “kitchen sink” blend with a heavy dose of merlot. It is the first time I have tried something from this winery so I was excited to give it a whirl. For some reason I didn’t look at the label to see if it was Columbia Valley appellation. Anyway, the nose was rather subdued which was disappointing showing faint notes of blackberries and vanilla. Nice core of dark fruit on the palate backed by balanced acidity. Some sturdy tannins on the mid-palate with a mocha, vanilla and spice kick backed by solid tannins on the finish. This wine has some aging potential and is well built. Give it three to five more years for the tannins to settle down and you are in for a treat.   89 points

2009 Chateau Haut-Roudier AC … Bordeaux, France … 9.99

When you have a great vintage like the ’09 in Bordeaux it is a good idea to seek out the lower tier wines, since they also reflect the quality of the vintage without the high price tag of the big boys.

Aromas of cedar,  cassis and rose pedal with just a little hit of stink. Cassis and cedar all over the front of the palate. Spice and tomato stem elements come through on the mid-palate followed by cassis and minerals on the finish. Some tannins come through on the back end. This is a really good rustic style “country” Bordeaux for the price.  87 points

2009 Chateau Lestrille Capmartin Cuvee Tradition Rouge … Bordeaux, France … 14.99

Another of those little gems from the ’09 vintage. Aromas of blackberries, tomato stem, tobacco leaf, spice and vanilla. Blackberries, spice and currants up front. A thin grip of tannins on the mid-palate with a little spice and tobacco leaf on the back end. Also some interesting brown sugar and soap elements on the back of the medium to long finish. A little more interesting then the first Bordeaux, and worth spending the few extra bucks for.  89 points

2009 Terranoble Gran Reserva Carmenere … Maule Valley, Chile … 19.99

Aromas of perfumed blackberries, tree branch, vanilla and dusty rocks. Green bell peppers, blackberries and currants dominate the palate with notes of vanilla and black tea coming through on a long finish. Great balance of acid and fruit, showing everything you would expect in a carmenere. Does not get too heavy on the herbaceous side but definitely has the elements. Well made wine.  91 points

2009 Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva … Chile … 9.99

Aromas of charcoal and blackberries with some stinky plum and mint action. Sweet tannins on the palate with notes of blackberries and a little “branchy” element on the mid-palate. Hits of mocha and chocolate with a little leather thrown in on the medium length finish.  Made from organically grown grapes.  88 points

2010 Cono Sur “Vision Series” Single Vineyard Pinot Noir … Colchagua Valley, Chile … 9.99

Aromas of bright cherries and strawberries with a little sulfur stink coming through. This wine is very dark for a pinot noir, almost deep purple. Bright acidity smacks the tongue right off the bat. Notes of Bing cherries, tobacco leaf and some fir tree bark come through up front. Very bright and almost mouth puckering throughout with a hit of blueberry on the tart finish. This wine is out of balance acid wise and even at this great price it is not a deal, that is unless you want a super acidic wine. Then have at it.  82 points

Non-Vintage (?) Bons Ventos Tinto Red … Casa Santos Lime, Portugal … 7.99

I put a question mark by the vintage because I am not sure if I just forgot to write it down. Hopefully non-vintage is correct. Aromas of black plums, currants and tiny hits of tomato stem and dirt. Blackberries and plums come through on the palate with a little vanilla mocha on the mid-palate. Nice little spice hit on the finish which thins out just a bit. This wine has good fruit and structure and delivers a lot for eight bucks.  87 points

2009 Xiloca Garnacha … Navarra-Aragon, Spain … 12.99

A little stink action on the nose along with notes of black plums, boysenberries, tobacco and hints of maple. Plump, dark fruit up front on soft tannins. Earth notes come through on mid-palate leading into sweet blackberries, earth and tobacco leaf with slight hits of pepper that lingers on the finish. I like this wine for its “Old World” style but I am not sure if the average consumer will like it.  89 points

2008 Kennedy Shah Merlot … Rattlesnake Hills, Washington … 12.99

Aromas of brown sugar and blackberries with hits of black currants and warm spices. Plush dark fruit with soft, structured tannins. Minerals show up on mid-palate leading into a finish of perfumed dark fruits, spices (nutmeg) and tobacco leaf on a long finish. This is what Washington State merlot is all about at a crazy price.  91 points

2010 ShingleBack Red Knot Shiraz … McLaren Vale, Australia … 9.99

Intense aromas of blackberry jam and currants. Nice intensity on the palate with notes of blackberry jam and white pepper on mid. The blackberry notes seem to have a black tea element on the backside. Nice balance with a long finish with hits of iron. This wine gets close to hedonistic, but does not quite get there. It’s too bad that Australian wines are seeing a decline in sales because this is a classic example of how good syrah can get for next to nothing.  90 points

The spring is always busy when it comes to wine sampling as vendors work hard to get shelf or display space. The Moleskine is loaded with more notes to share with you next week. Till then, happy wine drinking and I hope I helped you with your wine spending budget. Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

 

 


 

 

 

 

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JED STEELES THE SHOW!

Posted on March 27, 2012 by Stan The Wine Man

Actually, Jed Steele WAS the show at the “Intimate Tasting With The Wine Maker” event as the featured guest. I have supported and been a fan of Steele wines including the Shooting Star and Writer’s Block labels for a long time.

The Steele winery is located in Lake County which is north of Napa County and east of Mendocino County. Home to around twenty-five wineries this area is back woods compared to Napa or Sonoma. It is here in 1991 that Jed started Steele Wines. It seems like longer then that, that I met him for the first time at the Duck Soup Inn restaurant at a meet and greet event. I fell in love with his wines back then, and still find them to be great values of high quality. So it seemed natural to have him at one of my tasting events.

It was a nice crowd and a fun event as Jed shared with us his personal history in wine making and some of his feelings on the subject. Jed covered many of the aspects of wine making and went over each of the wines that we enjoyed. I would like to take just a few paragraphs to go over the wines that we tasted.

We started off with the 2010 Shooting Star Aligote. Sourced from Washington State fruit, Steele is the second winery to begin producing aligote as a sole varietal. Jed pointed out that this wine was considered a peasants wine in Burgundy back in the day. However, I think I can speak for everyone in attendance that this white went well beyond the “Peasant” category. Vibrant on the palate with zippy tropical fruit notes that danced in the mouth. A perfect white for mussels, clams or oysters, this was far and away the favorite white of the night.

The second white we poured was a personal request of mine. 2010 Steele Viognier Lake County, California. I love this viognier because it has great balance between fruit and acidity. Fragrant but not overly perfumed it displays delicious notes of apricots, peaches and tangerines. Nice weight on the palate yet it finishes dry. The audience asked what it could pair with, and I think it would be excellent with mussels, clams or Asian fare. Saute your clams in this viognier and then have a glass with the end product. You may just die and go to heaven.

Next on the list of whites was the 2009 Steele Cuvee Chardonnay California. The grapes are sourced from several vineyards thus the “cuvee” monicker. I think a lot of the folks were pleasantly surprised by this chard. Excellent balance of fruit and oak with notes of pear, pineapple and a kiss of toast. Jed has come a long way with this effort, and I can remember back when this chardonnay was practically liquid lumber. Of course, a few years ago, heavily oaked chardonnay was all the rage. This chard strikes a nice balance, and many were sold on it.

It was now time to move onto something with a little color to it. We poured the 2011 Steele Cabernet Franc Rose Lake County, California. Jed has produced a rose of and on in his career depending on demand. He has now found a favorite grape to make rose with… Cabernet Franc. He helped the audience understand the method for making rose that many wine makers employ called the saignee` method, in which juice is bled off during maceration giving it the light red hue and leaving the rest of the juice for a more concentrated cabernet franc.

The finished product is absolutely delicious. Notes of strawberries, rhubarb and raspberry come through on the nose and palate. Nice acidity drives the flavors into a mouthwatering finish. This is no wimpy rose and lends itself well for food. Ham, pork or even pizza would match up nicely with this effort. Rose is still a tough sell in my store, but I am working hard at converting as many as possible over to this versatile wine. Many in the audience expressed their delight for this wine.

We now moved on to the reds and one of the more interesting wines that Jed produces. 2010 Shooting Star Blaufrankisch (Blue Franc) Washington State. Most of us Washingtonians know this wine as lemberger. However, Jed prefers the blaufrankisch designation that was only allowed by the government a few years ago. Blaufrankisch is the Austrian name of the same grape the Germans call lemberger. The Austrians produce some outstanding red from this grape, whereas as Jed pointed out, the Germans do not put a lot of effort into their lembergers.

So, blaufrankisch it is! This is a gutsy little red with nice raspberry, spice and cherry notes. The tannins are structured but approachable making this a wine that will hold for a few years. I was not surprised at the response to this wine… Many took advantage of the great price offered and ordered some for themselves.

The 2009 Writer’s Block Cabernet Franc Lake County, California was next up. Jed pointed out that his son Quincy Steele has taken the reigns on this label as the wine maker, but Jed helps in the blending. This is one of my top selling cabernet francs at the store not only because it roles in at fifteen bucks, but it is damn good juice. Some of the cab francs on the market are asking an obscene price for such an obscure varietal. (Obscure that is, to the average consumer) This cabernet franc strikes a nice balance between old and new world styles in wine. Nice dark fruits come through backed by some nice earthy notes and good structure. Very approachable and layered. I think you would be hard-pressed to find a better deal in domestic cab franc on the market.

Jed & Quincy also produce a Malbec under the Writer’s Block label and that is what we poured next. 2009 Writer’s Block Malbec Lake County, California. Wow, did this malbec have some muscle to it. Unlike it’s much softer Argentinian cousins, this malbec seriously needs some time in the bottle. Big tannic structure backed by tobacco leaf and boysenberry notes, this wine screams for a grilled steak or some bbq spareribs. If you have the patience to wait, this wine will be at it’s best in 5-10 years… No kidding! Again, the price is right rolling in at fifteen bucks. Jed let us know that it might get more expensive in a couple of years since the farmer raised the price of his grapes substantially. Get your hands on some of this and put it away for a few years… It will be a treat when you open it.

Now came the big hit of the night overall. The 2008 Steele “Pacini Vineyards” Zinfandel Mendocino County, California. I think it is safe to say that Jed likes zinfandel. He produces several different vineyard designate zins under the Steele label and a zin under the Shooting Star and Writer’s Block labels. His zins are expressive and structured, never going into the goopy, jammy arena. Everyone loved this zin (Or at least most of the crowd). Nice black raspberry and anise notes with hits of vanilla and mocha coming through. Hints of white pepper come through on a long finish. I have to say that this is not my personal favorite of Jed’s zins but I still like it a lot. Who cares anyway, the crowd loved it to the tune of ordering almost eight cases of it at the event. The top seller, hands down.

Now came one of my personal favorites in red from Jed. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist!) 2008 Steele “Red Hills” Cabernet Sauvignon lake County, California. Jed spent a little time talking about the excellent soil composition where these cabernet sauvignon grapes are grown. A lot of vocanic soil with what they call black glass deposits help to give the grapes an interesting flavor profile. Terroir has a huge influence on this wine. Notes of dusty minerals come through on the nose backed by aromas of plums, cherries and some nice spices including nutmeg. Bright and structured on the palate with notes of dark cherries, blackberries and a nice minerality on the long finish. Structured tannins with a little tannic grip on the backside. Serious cab that is approachable now and will age nicely over the next 5-8 years. Sorry about the expressive notes, but I love this cab!

Last but certainly not least on the list of wines was the 2006 Steele “Stymie” Merlot Founder’s Reserve Lake County, California. In honor of his father, Jed named this merlot after his father’s favorite race horse, Stymie. Jed spent a little time talking about the demise of merlot in our country and why that is a shame. When merlot became a big hit in the late eighties, many wineries jumped on the bandwagon producing insipid examples of this varietal. Then the movie “SideWays” came out, punctuating the feeling about merlot. However, as Jed pointed out, many of the greatest wines in the world are merlot including the much heralded Petrus.

That being said, the crowd was treated to this outstanding effort. Dense and delicious would be the best way to sum this one up. It reminded me a little of an Amarone with its concentrated black currant flavors backed by leather and tobacco leaf. The tannins are smooth and elegant. This wine has a seemingly endless finish. Despite the higher price point of over thirty bucks many were moved to order a few bottles if not a case. In terms of dollars spent, this was the top dog!

If you have not had a chance to taste some of Jed’s wines, I encourage you to seek them out. Steele, Shooting Star & Writer’s Block (Quincy Steele) are both excellent wines and top notch values. Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

 


 

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AN HOUR WITH DAVID PAIGE.

Posted on March 17, 2012 by Stan The Wine Man

It was probably a little more then an hour, but the time went by quickly as I sat and tasted through the wines of Adelsheim with wine maker David Paige. I love hanging with wine makers. I liken it to hanging out with an assistant director of a movie. They give a different perspective to things and they love to share the nuts and bolts of what they do.

David Paige has a very interesting and insightful view of wine making in Oregon. As he put it, “We cannot mass produce in Oregon. The lay of the land does not allow it. Rolling hills and small lots of land restrict us from producing 5-7 tons an acre in the Willamette Valley. So, since we have to charge more for our wine, we had better give a superior product.” True to his words, Oregon has made its mark on the world scene with award winning pinot noir from many different producers all over the Willamette Valley. Adelsheim is to be included in that group of outstanding wineries from Oregon.

However, Oregon wineries… in particular those from the Willamette Valley are not one trick ponies. They have a lot to offer other then pinot noir.  I had a chance to taste many of the Adelsheim offerings with David as we talked. Here are my notes on the wines we enjoyed and I will include some of Davids insight on his approach to wine making.

2010 Adelsheim Pinot Blanc Bryan Creek Vineyard … $18.99

Pinot blanc is a tough sale on the store level. Many consumers are just not familiar with it. I believe once they try an effort like this they could be converted.

Aromas of ginger, apple, dusty rocks and hits of pear. Bracing on the palate with notes of lemon, lime and kiwi backed by a core of minerality. Mouthwatering wine with delicious apple skin notes on the mid-palate. Hits of lemon rind and grapefruit on a long, clean and bright finish. If you want the perfect wine with Northwest shellfish, I believe this might hit the mark. This wine benefits from Davids less is more approach  to wine making. He believes in very little manipulation allowing the fruit to express itself as it should be. As a result, this pinot blanc is expressive and vibrant.  89+ points

2011 Adelsheim Rose Willamette Valley, Oregon… $17.99

I am really not a fan of pinot noir rose simply because I find they lack any kind of vibrancy. However, David set me straight as to why this is the case. He pointed out that many wineries produce a pinot noir rose as a byproduct of actual pinot noir wine. (The red variety). Most wineries use the saignee method where they bleed off excess juice from the maceration process to concentrate their red wines. The excess juice, which is pink due to brief contact with red skins is used to produce a rose. In the case of pinot noir, which is a lighter red, you end up with a very weak rose.

So as he put it, Adelsheim wanted a rose so he told them, “Let’s make a rose, and not an afterthought.” As a result, Adelsheim’s rose is both delicious and vibrant. Aromas of ripe strawberries, cranberries and red plums. Soft and silky on the palate with notes of strawberries and Rainier cherries on the finish, followed by hits of apple skin. This rose has character, because they did not produce it with juice that was bled off to intensify their pinot noir. David made rose juice for the purpose of making a good rose. He succeeded.  90+ points

2010 Adelsheim Chardonnay Willamette Valley, Oregon … $18.99

Subtle aromas of apple, pear and hits of ginger spice. Apples all day on the palate backed by a vibrant acidity reminiscent of the pinot blanc. Very clean and crisp with hits of ginger and spice on the mid-palate. Just a touch of white pepper on the finish with hints of oak. This chard is NOT for those who like the oak laden buttered popcorn chards that are out there. By the way, I find that there are times when the BIG style is quite desirable. However, this chard is not big. Rather, it shows both finesse and arrogance at the same time.  A perfect compliment to mussels , clams or oysters it is both jazzy and delicious.  89 points

2010 Adelsheim Pinot Noir Willamette Valley … $28.99

Aromas of Asian spice, black tea and bright cherries with only the slightest hint of vanilla. Black tea and Bing cherries come through up front backed by some nice Asian spice elements on the mid. Nice long, pleasing finish with some cherry pit action going on. It  has excellent balance of fruit and acidity. This will age nicely over the next 10-15 years.   93 points.

2009 Elizbeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon … $50.99

Aromas of black raspberries and black cherries with hits of black tea and Asian spice. Concentrated notes of dark cherries come through on the palate with hits of oak and black tea. Nice balance on this wine with good acidity and fruit along with tiny hits of Asian spice. Give it 5-10 years if you have patience and you may be rewarded. I actually felt that the Willamette Valley (Regular) version is a much greater value.  90 points

After we finished up, I came away with a greater appreciation for the wines of Adelsheim and their wine maker David Paige. He is serious about what he does and it shows in the wines. I appreciate the less is more approach he takes in his wine making philosophy allowing the wines to express themselves as they should be without a lot of makeup. I have sold Adelsheim wines at my store with great success, and now I understand why.

Cheers! Stan The Wine Man


 

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