One of the oldest wineries in Barolo, their first bottling was 1878. We were greeted by seventh generation Oddero, Isabella, granddaughter of Giacomo Oddero who at 95 years old is still deeply involved in the winery. Oddero is located in the Santa Maria, La Mora region of Barolo. Aside from vineyards located in the Barolo region, they also have vineyards in Barbaresco, which as Isabella pointed out are a little more difficult to manage because of the distance from the winery. All of the fruit they source is estate fruit with total holdings of 35 Hectares or 86+ acres. Certified organic, Isabelle spoke of the challenge of maintaining organic practices, but also noted that it is for the benefit of future generations. She also expounded on the challenge of viticulture as the effects of global warming are becoming more and more evident. She pointed out the challenges of vineyard and canopy management as temperatures increase each year. Her passion for viticulture and deep respect for her grandfather were evident.
Isabelle took us into the winery and the first room was filled with artifacts that Giacomo has saved from the winery past. It was quite interesting to see the equipment used in the days of yesteryear. Oddero has not allowed themselves to be influenced by the wine critic superstars who have tried to encourage wineries to adopt new world practices in the old world. They firmly adhere to old-world practices in handling fickle Nebbiolo, the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco. Large puncheons are employed in the aging of the juice with the oldest holding 10,500 liters (this is it’s last year, being 65 years old). Their philosophy is to properly manage the vineyards, so they will produce excellent fruit and then make sure they don’t screw it up in the winemaking process. As most wineries will tell you, winemaking starts in the vineyard and Oddero practices that philosophy vehemently. They ferment each vineyard lot separately and then blend them carefully to attain the quality they are looking for.
No new oak for their Barolo or Barbaresco! However, they do use new oak for their Barbera, simply because Barbera is low in tannins and it responds better to new oak. After using the barrels for a couple of years for Barbera, it is ready to nurse the Nebbiolo. Oddero is looking for expressive wines, that reflect terroir and the vintage. They are both feminine and powerful at the same time and will benefit greatly with aging.
Isabella spent some time explaining how her grandfather, Giacomo and several other wineries pulled together to protect the integrity of the Barolo region. Today, the designation D.O.C.G. for both Barolo and Barbaresco was spearheaded by her grandfather. Giacomo also made sure that only grapes grown and wines made in the Barolo or Barbaresco regions could have that appellation on their label. He is a man of action and integrity, and it is obvious that this intensity and passion has been passed on to his children and grandchildren.
After the tour of the cellar, Isabella tasted me on a few of their wines. I was most excited to be one of the first to taste their Riesling which is a new experiment for them. In one of their vineyards which we could see from the winery, they tore out all the Chardonnay vines and replaced them with Riesling.
The Riesling had a nose straight out of Germany with hits of petrol and rubber boot. It was light on the palate with notes of petrol, mandarin orange and hits of white pepper. I think they are on to something and I’m excited to see how it will evolve. It had just been bottled, so I know it will change a bit over time. We tasted through their reds and I have to tell you that I felt as if I were in Nebbiolo heaven. Although we started with the Barbera D’Alba (which was exceptional) the rest were Nebbiolo.
The 2017 Oddero Langhe Nebbiolo was definitive Nebbiolo. Rust, red flowers and a touch of herbs with earth and strawberry notes lying underneath. This is their entry level Nebbiolo and if you want to know what Oddero is all about, this is an excellent place to start.
Isabella couldn’t say enough about the 2016 vintage. Their 2016 Oddero “Gallina” Barbaresco certainly is a testament to the quality of the vintage. Very aromatic with notes of red flowers, pomegranate
We tasted through several of their Barolo, including the 2015 and 2011 “Brunate”, and the 2015 “Villero”, all Cru vineyards. Their straight up Barolo, which is an incredible value, is a result of blending three Cru vineyards. The topping on the tasting cake was the 2009 Oddero “Vignarionda” Riserva Barolo. With ten years under its belt, it was starting to show the intention of the winemaker. Worn leather, herbs, cherries and pomegrante defined the palate with meaty, refined tannins. Notes of mushroom sneak in underneath with a kiss of coffee bean and hints of fennel. I was amazed at how well this gem was showing its aging potential. It could easily go another ten to fifteen years, although I don’t know if I would have the patience, as it is drinking so incredible now.
I was blown away at the opportunity to visit such an iconic winery in this well-known region of Italy. The chance to taste such incredible wines and meet a seventh generation Oddero is a highlight in my wine career and one I won’t forget.
Cheers!
Stan The Wine Man
