Stan The Wine Man

Washington State has long been known for it’s outstanding Riesling. However, there is much more to Washington whites than just Riesling. Roussanne, Viognier, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris just to name a few, are showing promise from this great wine-producing state. Here are my notes from a few Washington whites I have reviewed recently.

2012 Mercer Estates Sauvignon Blanc (Yakima Valley, WA)… $15.

Mercer Estate is the winery of the Hogue brothers who sold Hogue Winery to one of the big boys years ago selling their name along with the deal. Wanting to get back into the wine business after their no-competition agreement expired, they opened Mercer Estates. I have been critical of their over-use of oak on their reds and Chardonnay, so I was curious about their Sauvignon Blanc.

Aromas of lemon, grapefruit pith and bubble gum, with just a trace of cut grass. Lemon, lime, grapefruit pith and melon fill the palate with a creamy edge. A hint of Red Delicious apple shows up on the mid-palate and finish with white pepper notes lingering. This is a pretty good effort with a nice dry, lingering finish. I could use a little more acidity myself, but that’s just me. (B)

2012 Chatter Creek Pinot Gris (Yakima Valley, WA)… $12.

Gordy Rawson is one of my favorite Washington Wine makers. He is humble and kind with a nice touch in his wine making skills, leaning towards an old world style, rather than a fruit forward style. Anyone that knows me, knows I am not a huge fan of Pinot Gris/Grigio. However, I understand it’s popularity and would never turn down and opportunity to give one a try. Who knows, I may find one that rocks my world.

A slight burnt match component on the nose backed by notes of melon, honeysuckle, lemon peel and white flowers. The lemon peel comes through nicely on the palate with notes of melon and honeysuckle. There is a slight apple hit on the mid-palate and finish with an interesting core of minerals that hit from start to finish. Nice balance, and medium acidity. As Pinot Gris goes, this strikes a middle road and is certainly at a value driven price range. (C+/B-)

2013 San Juan Vineyards Pinot Gris (Yakima Valley, WA)… $14.

San Juan Vineyards had a mold problem with their crop of Madeleine Angevine and lost the whole crop. What to do? Wine maker Chris Primus immediately got on the phone to track down some Pinot Gris. They found some and were able to produce enough to fill the hole in their wine portfolio.

This one has a very interesting nose of lemon, melon white flowers and an interesting herb and spice component. Very creamy mouth-feel with notes of lemon curd, melon, apple, white flowers and a touch of white pepper and dried herbs. Finishes with a nice lemon curd and white pepper edge. This didn’t rock my world, but it got my attention. A very nice effort from Chris Primus, wine maker at San Juan vineyards. (B+)

2013 San Juan Vineyards Siegerrebe (Estate Grown Puget Sound, WA)… $20.

You may not have heard of this varietal, but it very common to see western Washington wineries growing and producing it since it thrives in their climate. The past five vintages of Siegarrebe from San Juan Vineyards have been stellar, so I was excited to give this one a whirl.

Aromas of apple, coconut, tangerine, orange blossoms and white flowers jump out of the glass in an aromatic burst (as soon as I opened the bottle I could smell it). Tangerine, orange blossoms, honeysuckle and coconut notes fill the palate with a creamy edge. This is a fruit medley on the palate with a dry edge, keeping it from being sweet in any way. Nice balance of fruit and acid with the fruit and flower notes jumping out in a very delicious way. This might be the best Siegerrebe I have tasted from this vineyard. Chris hit another home run. (A)

2012 Milbrandt Vineyards “The Estates” Viognier (Wahluke Slope WA)… $16.

Milbrandt Vineyards was my winery of the year in 2012. They continue to produce some outstanding juice under the guidance of wine maker Joshua Maloney. The value of these wines cannot be over-stated as most come in at under twenty-five bucks.

This is one of the most subdued noses I have gotten on a Viognier in a while. Aromas of apple, melon and a touch of popcorn (sans butter) with a dust component coming through. Very different in the mouth with cutting notes of tangerine, melon, honeysuckle and lemon peel. Good balance and flow across the palate with enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively in the mouth. Finishes clean and delicious with lemon and tangerine notes lingering. (A-)

2013 Holmes Family Winery Cotes De Ciel Roussanne Ciel Du Cheval Vineyard (Red Mountain, WA)… $20.

Aromas of peaches, mango and papaya with a hit of lemon zest, apple blossoms and orange blossoms. Very full and rich on the palate with notes of lime, mango, papaya, banana, tangerine and lemon zest. This is a “10” in the delicious category and a scary bottle of wine for me, because I could drink the whole bottle in a heartbeat. I would pair this with fowl, pasta with a white cream sauce or a warm spring day in the back yard. Good balance, never gets heavy but makes you think you are so close to dessert. (A-)

2011 Efeste “Lola” Chardonnay Evergreen Vineyard (Columbia Valley, WA)… $32.

Aromas of ripe pineapple, apple and oak with a slight buttery edge to it. Bright pineapple and lemon notes penetrate the palate with a touch of butterscotch on the back-end This has Evergreen Vineyard written all over it with its fresh acidity and flavors. This is a “big” Chardonnay that does not have oak all over it. Good integration of fruit and acidity with the oak treatment giving it that butterscotch, buttery edge. When I first smelled it I thought I was in for an oak bomb…Not so. This is a fresh and lively Chardonnay with enough ripe fruit to round it out. (B+/A-)

As Washington wine month comes to a close (and it went by seriously fast for me), I will have to admit defeat as far as being able to review fifty Washington State wines. However, with the wines that I have reviewed, it is obvious that Washington has a serious foot-hold in the wine world with promise of better things to come.

Cheers!

Stan The Wine Man

The Washington wine industry compared to most of the wine world is quite youthful. However, the state is now #2 in grape production next to the powerhouse wine industry of California. Washington is fast becoming recognized for putting out some serious juice, which is getting the attention of many California producers who are looking to Washington to expand their production. Gallo is the first to move in with a heavy hand, buying the iconic winery Columbia (made famous by renowned wine maker David Lake). It will be interesting to see how this trend develops, but what it does indicate is that the Washington wine industry is getting the serious attention it deserves.

Ross Andrew Winery is an example of some of the quality producers in Washington State. Ross Andrew Winery is located in Woodinville WA and is named after wine maker Ross Andrew Mickel. Ross' story about his path to wine making is very interesting. He worked as a cellar rat at Delille Estate, a vintage at Rosemount Estate in Australia and then a ten-year stint at the iconic Betz Family Winery under the tutelage of Master of Wine Bob Betz. It was during this time that in 1999 Ross and his family started Ross Andrew Winery. Bob Betz like many other wine makers, allowed his assistant to pursue his new venture in wine making at the Betz facility, until he could step out on his own. So, when Bob Betz moved his winery to a new location, Ross took over the lease on the building that Bob was vacating…This became the official Ross Andrew Winery.

I had a chance to talk with Ross recently and taste through some of his wines. Here are my impressions.

2011 Ross Andrew “Meadow” White (Columbia Valley, WA)… $16.

A blend of 70% Pinot Blanc, 14% Pinot Gris, 10% Riesling and 6% Gewurztraminer this white exhibits aromas of apple, melon, white flowers and orange blossoms (very nice aromatics). Granny Smith apples all day on the palate, backed by notes of lemon, melon, honeysuckle and orange blossoms. I can see myself enjoying this all summer in the backyard while I’m firing up the BBQ getting ready for some serious grilling. (B)

2012 Ross Andrew “Meadow” Rose` (Columbia Valley, WA)… $13.

Aromas of dark cherries, ripe watermelon and rhubarb. On the palate, dark cherries and ripe watermelon come through with an interesting hit of white pepper. This rose` has a nice weight in the mouth without getting too fruity, and it finishes nice and dry like most rose` lovers like. Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Lemberger (Blaufrankisch), Ross left the juice on the skins just a little longer to give it good color and flavors. (B+)

2011 Ross Andrew “Meadow” Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Oregon)… $15.-$20. (Depending on where you buy it)

Black tea, cherries and rose petal come through on the nose with a hit of cola. On the palate, notes of dark cherries, rose petal and cola, with a trace of earthiness. This is a lighter style pinot from a tougher vintage in Oregon, that has all the correct elements of a Pinot Noir, with good balance and a short finish. Having salmon? This pinot would be a nice complement and easy on the wallet. (C)

2010 Ross Andrew “Glaze” Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, WA)… $15.

One thing I have to say about Ross is that his wines are made for the long-haul. I recently reviewed a 2008 Ross Andrew “Glaze” Cab and it had aged beautifully. Please do not “Pop & Pour” this cab. Give it some breathing time or stock it away in your cellar for a couple of years and I know you will be pleasantly surprised.

Chalky aromas of cherries and currants with notes of black olive and tomato stem coming through. Bright on the palate with a nice backbone of acidity. Notes of currants and cherries are backed by trace minerals. There is an herbal component that comes through on the mid-palate followed by a hit of anise on the medium to long finish. This is a great value in Washington Cab…Just remember to let it open up. (B+)

2009 Ross Andrew Syrah (Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley, WA)… $40.

Very Cote Rotie in style this Syrah expresses aromas of blueberries, boysenberries, currants and white pepper with hits of anise and tobacco. Nice and peppery on the palate with notes of violets, red plums, blueberries and boysenberries coming through. Underlying notes of bacon-fat and cherries come through on the mid-palate and finish. There is a nice core of acidity to support the fruit giving a somewhat bright edge to the Syrah. This is another wine that would benefit from some decanting and will age nicely over the next 5-8 years. (B+)

Cheers!

Stan The Wine Man