I like the word “nervy” as a wine descriptor, and I really don’t use it enough. But what is a wine writer trying to convey when using this word in relation to wine?
Nervy: In the dictionary, the word can mean a couple of things. One definition is strong, sinewy, vigorous. Certainly one could apply those words to wine. There are wines that are vigorous on the palate, lighting it up with flavors. I often think of a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and Sancerre, or a chardonnay from Chablis that hasn’t seen any oak (believe it or not, some wine makers see a need to use oak in Chablis). Strong, vigorous flavors are driven by acidity which could be likened to the sinew of the body in a wine. Without a proper amount of acidity, the wine will not be vigorous on the palate. Mind you, there are wine makers that are not looking to make their wines in a vigorous style and they back off on the prominence of the acidity.
The other definition, and this is the one that I think of when using this word is nervous, excitable, on edge. This is very close to the same things mentioned above with just a little twist. I think of a nervy wine as one that jumps around on the palate like a nervous or excitable person might fidget and squirm in their seat. The flavors of the wine pop in the mouth and have an edginess to them that cuts into your taste buds. Again, all we have to do is drink a Sancerre or Chablis which are generally higher in acidity to understand the term “nervy” when used as a wine descriptor.
There are of course reds that can have a nervy quality to them. I had a wine from Tuscany the other night that was so nervy and edgy on the front of the palate that it caught me off guard. The acid levels where through the roof. After I adjusted, I appreciated the wine a little more, and it went really well with the food that I ate later. Sangiovese from Tuscany and Cabernet Franc from Chinon have a reputation for being nervy on the palate. Another red grape that can push the acid levels causing it to be a nervy or excitable on the palate is Pinot Noir. Have you ever drank a young Pinot from Burgundy, New Zealand or Oregon? I think you get the picture. I had a Pinot Noir one time that was so bright and nervy on the palate that I likened it to SweetTarts in my mouth.
So, if a wine you are drinking causes excitement in your mouth, is edgy and vigorous with a strong backbone of acidity, then you may want to describe that wine as “nervy”.
Cheers! Stan The Wine Man
