A CHARDONNAY A DAY PART III

I gave it a hero’s effort, but I am not sure I will make my goal of reviewing sixty-one chardonnay in June and July. Hopefully I will get there. By the end of this article which I began preparing late August you and I will know the answer.

It has been a real learning experience tasting through all these chardonnay, and it has helped me immensely in my effort to know the wines and what to recommend at the store level to my customers. I have discovered a lot of good ones and a few bad ones. The last leg of my journey is about to unfold. Let’s see what I found…

2007 Robert Young Estate Winery Chardonnay Alexander Valley, California … 34.99

I’m not a huge fan of paying thirty-five bucks for a chardonnay from California. My expectations are very high since like most of you, I want to feel like I got a good bang for my buck. The next three chardonnay that I am about to review fall in the expensive category. How did will they fare? First, the Robert Young chard. It was an ’07 vintage which tells me that it does not move as fast of some of it’s more famous cousins. However, that being said I believe that folks who have not tried this wine may be missing out if you like a big bold wine.
Loads of tropical fruit on the nose, noticeably pear and pineapple. The wine fills the mouth at almost a hedonistic level with notes of pineapple, peach and pear. The wine flows nicely on the palate with a little butterscotch edge on the mid-palate. Wanting to be too heavy on the oak but never really getting there with good balance and a creamy long finish. This chard is not for everyone, but if you are a Rombauer fan, looking for something else while you’re waiting for the new vintage to appear on the shelf, this may be the perfect alternative. 90 points

2008 Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay (Estate Grown) Napa Valley, California … 36.99

The last time I imbibed a glass of Grgich chard, all I remembered was the oak. Not now, as I was very impressed with the restraint this wine showed on the oak side. Don’t get me wrong, the oak was there but well balanced. Nice bouquet of pears and apple with an edge of minerality. Good balance on the palate with notes of Asian pear, ginger and apple that never blasted the palate but held from the beginning into a long finish. I would call this wine just a touch austere, realizing the huge potential sitting in the glass. It reminded me a lot of a white Burgundy with a kiss of oak and California sunshine. In a couple of years this wine will more then likely open even more into a tropical fruit delight. With a little patience we will find out. 92 points

2008 Darioush Chardonnay Napa Valley, California … 46.99

Now we are getting into the “I do not want to pay this much for a Chardonnay” range. What I got was a very interesting and different chard. Aromas of tangerine, apples, minerals and pear. On the palate this chardonnay displayed more acidity then I expected backed by loads of minerals, notes of pears and apples that penetrated the mid-palate. On the finish the wine almost gets a smokey edge to it with notes of peach pit, hazelnuts and some interesting spices. I’m not sure if this wine will blow you away for the price, but it has a potential to age nicely over the next five years and has a lot of Burgundian qualities. I liked it and although it is pricey, it is a steal if you compare it to some of the white Burgundies on the market. 94 points

2008 Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay Napa Valley, California … 26.99

This winery has been around for a long time and I am glad to have a chance to revisit it. On the nose the oak comes through with notes of pear and spice (ginger). Creamy and buttery on the palate with notes pear and apple up front and on the mid-palate into a big hit of butterscotch on a long finish. Nice balance across the board. 91 points

2009 LaCrema Chardonnay Monterey County, California … 14.99

Everyone goes nuts of the Sonoma version of this wine so I was quite curious as to how this would taste. I found the bouquet to be quite restrained with light notes of apple. This my friends is a butterball from front to finish. Under that butter are notes of pear and pineapple with a slight toast hit that hangs on the finish. For those who want chardonnay with their butter, this will do the trick. 87 points

2009 Lamblin et Fils Maligny-Les-Chablis Bourgogne Blanc Chablis, France … 12.99

As is typical with wines from Chablis this chardonnay is very light in color. Fresh aromas of pear and apple with hints of spice. Nice mineral edge on the palate with notes of Bartlett pear and apple skins. A little creaminess on the mid-palate with a nice flow across the palate into a mineral driven finish. This is cheap for a decent Chablis and one you may want to seek out if you are a mineral freak like I am. 89 points

2009 Cantele Salento Chardonnay Apulia, Italy … 11.99

I can’t tell you the last time I tasted an Italian chardonnay, but it has been too long. Pale in color. Interesting aromas of mint, pear and hits of ginger. On the lean side with steely pear and lemon notes backed by mineral notes. The finish is fresh and medium in length although I found it a little weak. This would be an excellent chardonnay to have with shellfish. Great value. 87 points

2009 Chateau d’ Aussieres Val de L’Ours Chardonnay Pays d’Oc Languedoc, France … 9.99

Almost looks like a sauvignon blanc in color. Stinky on the nose with notes of dirty socks and blue cheese with aromas of pear coming through. Soft, close to flabby on the palate and a little challenged. Sweet hit up front with slight notes of pear and apple with a little green apple skin coming through on the finish. This chard could certainly use a little more acidity to drive the flavors. This gets a big pass with me. 82 points

2009 Nugan Estate “Vision” Chardonnay Riverina/New South Wales, Australia … 9.99

This chardonnay is the same price as the last one and certainly shows that you

can

do a good job even at the ten dollar price range. Aromas of rubber boot and pears. Some descriptions I’ve read use the word petroleum which I do not entirely get because that reminds me of gasoline and what they really mean is rubber like a beach ball or boot. I prefer rubber boot which is not a bad thing and conveys the aroma more accurately for the mind. Round and buttery with notes of Asian pear with underlying notes of rubber boot. Good balance on this wine with nice butter notes on the back end and a fresh acidity that gives it a nice clean finish. There is something about the rubber boot/butter/pear thing that works for me on this chard. I like it! 90 points

2009 Sagelands Chardonnay Columbia Valley, Washington … 6.99

I looked at the price on this baby just now and thought… Are you serious? This is really an awesome value for what it delivers. Fresh aromas of apple, pear and hints of ginger. Red delicious apple hits the palate right away. Fairly round and fruit forward with notes of ginger that flow into the mid-palate with apple notes coming through on the medium to long finish. There doesn’t appear to be oak on this chard and if there is it must be almost neutral. Like I mentioned, this is an excellent value especially if you prefer less to no oak. 89+ points

2009 Viu Manent Reserva Chardonnay Colchagua, Chile … 8.99

Interesting aromas of golden raisin, asparagus and underlying pear notes. Kind of a weird sweetness on the front of the palate with notes of asparagus, figs and oak. Buttery notes on the mid-palate that lead into a finish of fig, apple and oak that is a little awkward. This tastes like a cheap chard to me and I am not sure why the Wine Advocate gave it 89 points. I will pass on this effort. 79 points

2010 Independent Producers Chardonnay Dionysus Vineyard, Washington … 12.99

This is a second label for Hedges and it is very nice. Wonderful nose of white flowers, ginger and pear. Notes of green apple, ginger, spice up front with a green apple hit on the mid-palate. The green apples get a little tart on the finish with hits of minerals. Very fresh and clean with no oak at all. Talk about a great white to compliment clams or oysters. It’s making me drool just thinking about it. 90 points

2009 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay Napa Valley. California … 44.99

Another hefty price tag on a famous producer. I am sure most of you remember that this was the chardonnay that beat out all those French Burgundy in the blind tasting competition in Paris in 1976. The movie “Bottle Shock” was based on this event. Anyway, Montelena is still going strong and producing some outstanding juice.
The nose is very earthy on this chardonnay with a little sulfur action going on. Aromas of fig, ginger and caramelized pear come through on the nose. Medium in weight with excellent balance. Notes of fig, butter and pear get creamy on the mid-palate backed by interesting minerals. This baby has a very long finish with pitted fruits, pears and ginger coming through. Really, this is a chard to satisfy just about every kind of palate. 94 points

2009 Felino Vina Cobos Chardonnay Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina … 15.99

A little challenged on the nose with hits of stinky apples coming through. By the way, I often use the descriptor “stinky” and to me this is not a bad thing. I can just find no other way to say it and more often then not, it has no adverse affect on the flavor of the wine. It is true in the case of this wine as on the palate there are pleasing notes of ripe pears, caramel and ginger. Full on the mid-palate leading into toasted pear and marshmallow notes on a lingering finish. Good balance of fruit and acid. 89- points

2009 Creme De Lys Chardonnay California … 9.99

Aromas of pineapple, butter and oak. Bright core on the palate with notes of butter, apple and pineapple that are just slightly awkward on the mid-palate. The wine finishes strong however with flavors of toasty oak and green apple skins. For ten bucks, this chard is not too bad. 86 points
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2008 Dumol Chardonnay Russian River Valley, California … 55.99

Aromas of pear, butterscotch and pineapple. Pears and spice on the front of the palate which is quite creamy with hints of ginger coming through on the mid-palate. The flavors flow nicely until a big hit of oak and alcohol hit you on the finish. For those who like a little lumber with their chard, you will enjoy this baby. I am thinking that with a little more age on it the oak will quiet down and let the fruit express itself more on the finish. For now I have to give it 89 points

2009 Vie di Romans “Ciampagnis Vieris” Chardonnay Friuli, Italy … 43.99

Yet another Italian chardonnay, and this one packs a punch at the register. Aromas of fig, banana and apple are prominent on the nose with minerality coming through. layered on the palate with minerals and fig coming through big time on a very full yet bright structure. White flowers, minerals and fig continue on a long finish. There is no evidence of oak on this gem yet it shows some excellent structure and aging potential. 91 points

2009 Vie di Romans Chardonnay Friuli, Italy … 42.99

Now I am really on a roll. The third Italian chardonnay in less then a month, and it only gets better. Again, this one packs a punch at the register and I am going to encourage you to seek it out. This is probably the best chardonnay I have tasted in this entire tasting experience. White Burgundy meets Carneros is how I have it written in my tasting notes. Aromas of roasted fig, melon and honey. Very viscous on the palate with a steely backbone throughout. Layered notes of pear, apple and fig flow across the palate backed by layers of minerals. I was blown away by this effort from a very unlikely place. Friluli, Italy… Really? Like I said, seek this baby out if you are a White Burgundy or Carneros chardonnay fan. It will age nicely over the next 5-8 years and is drinking beautifully now. Bring on the crab! 97 points

There it is and there ain’t no more. I made it to 47 total in 61 days. It was a huge assignment and I am tired of writing pineapple, apple, butterscotch and pear in my notes. I loved the experience and I will prepare myself better the next time I dream up such an undertaking.

I discovered some great values in chardonnay and I hope it was helpful to you. I also found some great chardonnay from areas of the world I wasn’t expecting, including the jewel from Friuli, Italy. I also realized through all of this that I do indeed enjoy an oaked chardonnay as much as a steel fermented version. I discovered that there is a chardonnay out there for just about any food. Don’t let anyone look down on you for having a chard with your steak, I am sure there is one in the bunch that works, and who cares… It’s your palate, do what you want!

Despite all the criticism piled on this varietal, it still remains one of the most popular wines on the market right up there with cabernet sauvignon. Cheers to all of you that remain true to your palate and do not let popular opinion sway you away from what you like! Stan The Wine man.