When someone in the audience asked Rob Griffin what makes one of his wines a reserve, he simply said…”Because I said so.” Everyone laughed of course, but it really highlighted to me Rob’s sense of humor and his humility. When he was asked a question that he did not have an answer to, he acknowledged that he just didn’t know or wasn’t sure.
I know why he designates a wine a reserve, expensive fruit, newer oak treatment and longer time in barrel, and bottle before release. Rob knows this, but why bore the audience with all the little details. As I said before, Rob not only is a wealth of knowledge, he is a good speaker with great timing. He is also good with the grape juice, and after thirty years plus in the business, he is still passionate about what he does. We tasted through some of his Tulip Label reds and reserves, here are my notes.
2010 Barnard Griffin “Tulip Label Merlot (Columbia Valley, WA) … $14.
Aromas of warm spice and cinnamon penetrate on the nose (a little Cinnabon action), along with some green tea , currants and mint. Plush yet structured on the palate (in other words, it wasn’t jammy and flabby), with notes of currants and warm spice. Notes of black licorice and tobacco show on the mid-palate flowing into notes of worn leather, currants and white pepper. There is this interesting beam of fresh mint from start to finish that is barely detectable but there. Excellent balance of fruit, acidity and tannins with a wonderfully plush mouthfeel. This is the second merlot from the ’10 vintage out of Washington State that has really impressed me….This is the best value so far. (A-)
2009 Barnard Griffin Ciel Du Cheval Merlot (Red Mountain, WA) … $40.
From the well-known vineyards of Ciel Du Cheval on Red Mountain (one of my favorite appellations in WA) Rob sourced fruit for this incredible Merlot (oops, did I just let the cat out of the bag?). O.K. , I really like this baby.
Aromas of violets, licorice, baked earth, cassis, plums and blackberries fill the nose in almost a hedonistic fashion. Hyperbole? I don’t think so. There is a lot going on with this Merlot, and it starts on the nose. Chalky, earthy tannins back intense bright notes od cassis, plums and violets with a back-end of tobacco. This baby has a vibrancy and intensity on the palate that expands into the finish with a spicy edge. Notes of red flowers, baked earth and cassis, with a dash of spice lingers for some time. This drinks wonderfully now, but will improve over the next five years. (A)
2010 Barnard Griffin “Tulip Label” Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, WA) … $14
Aromas of rose pedal, cherries and cedar. Notes of rose pedal, cedar, and tobacco on the front of the palate with a core of currants on structured, approachable tannins. Seamless across the palate with chalky minerals, and a tobacco, spice and currant driven finish that lingers. Like the Tulip Merlot, this is an incredible value. I cannot believe you can get either of these for under fifteen bucks. Crazy! (B+)
2011 Barnard Griffin “Tulip Label” Syrah (Columbia Valley, WA) … $14.
Aromas of smoky blueberries, mint with a hit of char and caramel. Delicate on the palate, with notes of blueberries and currants up front. On the light side, start to finish with notes of smoke and mint on the back-end and lingering char and currant. This is a nice effort by Rob from a very difficult vintage. (C+)
2010 Barnard Griffin Reserve Syrah (Columbia Valley, WA) … $30.
Very meaty on the nose, with notes of menthol and blueberries. There is an interesting edge of rose petal, char and caramel that comes through. Sturdy tannins back concentrated notes of blueberries, currants and spice, with a little vanilla/mocha element sneaking in. A nice core of acidity magnifies on the mid-palate, into the meaty finish with notes of mint, currants and blueberries lingering for some time. There is also a nice worn leather component that comes through on the back-end. You could go out and spend sixty-bucks on a good Cote-Rotie from Northern Rhone, or spend half that and get this beauty with the same results. (A-)
If you are searching for great value, top quality wines, look no further than Barnard Griffin. If you want to get your hands on some of the limited reserves, join their wine club, visit their website, or stop by the winery for a visit, because you won’t find them in your local wine shop or grocery store. However, if your local wine shop doesn’t carry the Tulip Label wines, or some of the available reserves, get on their case, so you can get a case (or bottle of course…Just had to say that because it sounded clever.) Cheers! Stan The Wine Man
