SO I TOOK A MONTH OFF… KILL ME!

Posted on March 7, 2013 by Stan The Wine Man

Time has some seriously effective wings, because it flies by swiftly. I looked back to see that last time I posted any wine reviews from the trusty Moleskine and yes, it has been a little over a month. I’m not going to apologize, I’m just going to try and do much better in the future. Here are some of the wines that I have tasted over the past month.

2009 Scarborough Rebel Red (Columbia Valley, WA) … $13.99
Aromas of wet wood, cherries and warm spices. Plush cherry notes up front with a plum component coming through. Silky tannins and a nice flow across the palate. There is some serious spice notes that come through on the medium length finish. I think it lacks in complexity and is a little boring, but it is a “Ten” in the delicious factor. It will be liked! A blend of Grenache, Mouvedre, Sangiovese, Syrah and a splash of Merlot and Cab. (B-)

2006 Vistalba Corte C (Mendoza, Argentina)… $13.99
I normally don’t put a review of an older vintage like this on my site. However, I was so impressed with how this wine developed I just had to share it. The first time I tried this about three years ago I was not enthralled. With the age on it, I am quite impressed with how it developed.
The nose didn’t impress me at all. A little stink and not a lot else except maybe a little dark cherry and currants. Smooth notes of cherries and blackberries on the front of the palate. Nicely integrated fruit and tannins with a hit of tobacco and chocolate on the mid-palate. Finishes with notes of tobacco, currants and dark cherries. Some wood tannins and spice come through on the backside. This wine has come a long way in three years. (B+)

2009 Frank Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley, CA) … $52.99
When you think Napa at this price range, you think polished and opulent. This shows that and a little more. Aromas of Ripe black currants, green bell pepper, asparagus and black licorice (I love these aromas in a cab). Plush blackberry notes on the front of the palate with hits of currants and chocolate. Silky smooth across the palate with a spicy edge on the finish accompanied by notes of veggies and wood tannins. I’m glad the bell pepper, asparagus and other veggies showed up, otherwise this would have been just another Napa cab. (B-)

2010 Brian Carter Cellars Abracadabra Red (Columbia Valley, WA) … $17.99
Aromas of smoked ham, boysenberries, coffee beans and caramel. Notes of coffee bean, caramel and tobacco come through up front with underlying currant notes. The flavors dominate the palate with a little spice hit and tannic grip on the lingering finish. Would like to see a little more fruit then makeup on this wine. (C+)

2011 Efeste “Ferel” Sauvignon Blanc (Evergreen Vineyards Columbia Valley, WA) … $17.99
A little stink on the nose with a little burnt match, grapefruit and grass. Typical of this white, it is a wild ride in the mouth. Grass, honey, lime and some fir needles backed by a boatload of stainless steel. There is a nice steely edge from start to finish in the mouth with notes of lime and fir needle. The wine dances across the palate with a bunch of zingy citrus notes into a long finish. I loved last years vintage, but I like this one a lot better. (A)

2011 Chatter Creek Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley, WA) … $18.99
Aromas of melon, sulfur (burnt match) and hints of stone fruits with even some of the pit coming through. Melon and honey come through on the palate, but it seems a little flat. Some apple skin notes on the short finish. Sorry, this is a boring white and not worth the nineteen bucks. (c-)

Non-Vintage Riva Della Chiesa Prosecco Brut (Italy) … $12.99
I love the nose on this prosecco…Notes of ripe apples, peach and hints of almond. Apples and apple pie spice all over the palate. It’s like drinking liquified apple pie and spice cake blended together. Hints of minerals come through the apple driven finish. Nice balance on the drier side, and a “10” in the delicious category. (B+)

2008 Lan Rioja Crianza (Rioja, Spain) … $10.99
If you want to know what Rioja should smell like, this is headed in the right direction. Notes of black olive, old wood, dark fruits with a dash of dirt and tobacco. Sweet tannins on the palate with dark fruit notes and a kiss of molasses. Polished and seamless with a little black olive and tobacco showing up on the mid-palate. Black currants and mocha notes with some white pepper on the medium to long finish. This baby will satisfy “old school” Rioja drinkers on the noses, but it turns a little “new world” on the palate, which a lot of folks will like. I’m not going to get on a soapbox here, for the price this is an excellent value red. (B-)

2011 Lopez Island Vineyards Malbec (Wahluke Slope, WA)…$21.99
This is from my own backyard, and I really, really want to like it. Brent (wine maker) is just the nicest guy and he does put out some good juice. However, with all the great Malbec out there in this price range, there is some stiff competition.
Aromas of alfalfa and cherry juice with hits of black licorice. Hay and grass notes come through on the palate with just a hint of barnyard. Cherries and red berries sneak in on the mid-palate, but then the hay and grass notes dominate the finish with a dash of white pepper that lingers. If you want a little country wine, roll in the hay barn experience, this is for you. (C)

2005 Bodegas Rio Janas Vina Albina Rioja Reserva (Rioja, Spain)…$21.99
I love the nose on this baby. Stinky horse saddle, meets black fruit, char and an underlying freshness. Loads of black fruit, tar and spice on the front of the palate. Silky tannins back the fruit and spice through to a finish with a little wood tannin “grip” with a hit of menthol. This is a little plush for a Rioja red, and the wood tannins on the finish are just slightly awkward on the palate. (C+)

2008 Thimiopoulos Uranos Vineyards (Naoussa, Greece) … $29.99
I have just about zero experience with Greek reds so I hope I didn’t butcher the name on the label too bad. I think I put all the names in the right place. I do know that this is 100% Xinomavro which is a grape I want to get know better.
A little restrained on the nose with notes of red currants, cedar and whiffs of minerals. Red and black currants on the palate with an undertow of chocolate. Huge hits of spice and white pepper come to the fore in the middle palate with a hit of tannins. The finish shows a lot of wood tannins with underlying cedar notes. This red has sweet tannins and is almost fruit forward with a heavy dose of wood tannins. The tannins most likely will integrate with the fruit in about 3-5 years. I really want to try this then, because it could be a beauty. (B-)

2010 Altesino Rosso Di Altesino (Tuscany, Italy)… $21.99
Interesting aromas of rosemary, thyme, rose pedal, cedar and tobacco. Almost cherry cola like up front leading into chalky chocolate notes. Finishes with chocolate and spice with just a hint of ham hocks coming through. The spice hangs for some time. (B-)

2010 R.J. Vinedos Reunion Tinto (Mendoza, Argentina)… $12.99
Dusty restrained fruit notes on the nose with notes of dark cherries, currants and hits of cola. Smooth tannins on the palate back notes of black licorice, herbs and chocolate cherries. This baby is large in the mouth and almost sticky on the lips. The chocolate cherry notes linger on the finish with just a dash of tobacco leaf. 40% Malbec, 40% Bonarda, 20% Merlot. 14% abv (Alcohol by Volume) A little to fruit forward for my palate, but a think a lot of people will dig this red. (B-)

2011 Bodegas Caro Aruma Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina)… $14.99
Aromas of tobacco, cherry, leather and earth with just a hint of stink and a little alcohol. Plush notes of cola and dark cherries come through on the front of the palate with an explosion of chocolate on the mid-palate. The chocolate notes flow into the finish and envelope notes of tobacco, leather and spice. Another red that is not my cup of tea, but I am very aware that there are a lot of palates out there that will appreciate this wine. (B-)

There you have it, raw and directly from my tasting notes (with a little spell checking) to you. Cheers! Stan The Wine Man.

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INTEGRITY AND THE WINE CRITIC. A SLIPPERY SLOPE?

Posted on March 6, 2013 by Stan The Wine Man

I put this in question form simply because there are a variety of perspectives on what is ethics for a wine critic or writer. For instance, most critics and wine writers accept wine samples from PR companies, distributors or wineries. This is common place, and not considered crossing the line. Others (critics or writers) feel no compunction accepting free accommodations or a meal from a distributor or winery. Some wineries, importers or PR companies will even go as far as sending a writer or critic on a trip abroad to visit the wineries themselves, footing most of the bill.

Integrity is defined as steadfast adherence to a strict moral or ethical code. Herein lies the difficulty in judging what constitutes integrity for a wine critic. There is really no strict moral or ethical code.Just about anyone these days can jump on the internet, start blogging about wine, and attract an audience. It isn’t an easy road to success, but it has happened for a number of wine bloggers. Once a wine critic has the attention of the public, they soon gain the attention of PR (Public Relations) companies that handle media for wineries or the wineries themselves. Depending on the extent of the influence of the blogger, wineries and PR companies will start offering samples for review or trips to wineries so the critic can have a better grasp of what they are all about and write about them.

However, is it unethical for a wine critic to accept such gratuities if they write-up honest reviews about the wines positive or negative? Some feel very strongly on this matter. There is a camp that feels that accepting anything from a winery or PR company forms accepting a bribe. When Robert Parker Jr. started his wine periodical The Wine Advocate he did not and still does not put any advertising in the journal. He feels that it would taint the integrity of his reviews. However, he does except samples. Yet, the other big boys of wine periodicals The Wine Spectator and The Wine Enthusiast except samples and freely put ads of all kinds, even for wineries, in their magazines.

Does this make Robert Parker Jr. more ethical than the Spectator or the Enthusiast? Since there are no hard and fast rules on what a wine critic is or is not to do on these matters, it leaves it open for interpretation. I watched with much amusement, a huge debate on Twitter between about four wine critics on this very subject. There were lines drawn and sharp contrasts in how each one felt about accepting or not accepting anything from a sales rep or a winery. The debate was generated, because there really is no strict ethical code. There are no rules to go by.

One may argue that ethics are very personal. As an example, some may feel it is unethical to use every loophole available to save from paying taxes. Others have no problem with this even if it involves some gray areas. This is just one of many examples that can be cited in which the definition of ethical is interpreted differently by different people. Again, this is why it is a slippery slope for a wine critic. Where should each critic draw the line so that their reviews are not tainted.

Gary Vaynerchuk who at one time had an internet wine review program called WineLibraryTV reviewed a lot of wines that he sold at his store (Wine Library) where he shot most of the episodes. Many times during an episode, he would trash a wine that his store carried. This gave a lot of ethical weight to his reviews. Some accused him of using the show to sell wines at his store, but I think that avid viewers held a different opinion and trusted his reviews. This is where the critic has to feel comfortable with themselves. Are their reviews forthright and honest. Or, do they find themselves hedging in favor of a wine because they are enjoying the fringe benefits provided by the winery or PR company.

Gary made an interesting observation on one of his shows. He said that it was hard to trash a wine that was produced by someone who he liked. I can relate to that. However this never stopped Gary from giving his honest appraisal of a wine. I had a conversation recently with a wine critic that I have a lot of respect for. After our discussion it became obvious that there are two things that should define a critics ethical code. Brutal honesty and transparency. If a critic holds to these standards, then they can keep a firm foothold on the slippery slope of wine criticism.

Luckily for all of us, the information highway is huge and we have a lot of sources to choose from. It’s really not hard to find a good critic since most are honest and transparent. I think I can speak for most critics when I say we have a passion for wine and want to help our readers find a good bottle for the money. There is one trend that does bother me with a lot of the larger publications. They leave out any reviews that are negative. The excuse that I have heard is that there are too many wines being reviewed, and not enough space to put all the reviews in print. They also say that they feel readers are not interested in the wines with a poor review. Well, I beg to differ. I never enjoy posting a bad review of a wine, but I find comfort in the fact that I may have saved a consumer some money by helping them avoid a purchase they may regret. But, there is another side of this issue that comes into play.

All critics have a palate preference. I lean toward wines with minerality and just an edge of rusticity. Robert Parker Jr. is famous for liking big, fruit forward wines with a lot of oak influence. Steve Heimoff comes right out and says he doesn’t like zinfandel (Really?). James Laube of the Wine Spectator has a love affair with Napa Valley wines with that New World edge to them. By including negative reviews in their columns, they may be helping their readers find wines they like. For instance, if Parker trashes a wine, I may actually like it. He hates any vegetal elements in a wine. I find them intriguing, adding character. Steve Heimoff may trash a wine because it tastes like a zin. I may be in the mood for a zin-like wine and so I may give it a try. I think you get the point. Negative reviews by some critics could be a positive review for the reader. I know that sounds a little twisted, but it’s true. And the obvious is true also…It just may be a poorly made wine that you should avoid buying.

The slippery slope of wine criticism was brought to the fore not too long ago with the one time Wine Advocate critic Jay Miller. He no longer works for the Advocate (I believe he was asked to leave), but there were many well founded accusations that tainted his wine reviews. The sad thing is that most of the people who paid attention to what was going on were folks in the wine business, not the consumer. Let me tell you, it could happen to any critic if they allow themselves to get bigger then the wine world that they are making a living from. All critics must keep this mantra in their mind… I AM HERE FOR THE CONSUMER, NOT MYSELF… Plain and simple.

All said and done, there really is an ethical code that we as wine critics can strictly adhere to and if we do, we will avoid slipping down the slope of corruption.
#1) Be brutally honest in your review of a wine… Even if it means hurting some feelings.
#2) Be transparent. Let readers know who you are, and what you are getting, whether it is free samples or a trip from a winery or PR
company. If you are honest about these things, no doubt you will be honest across the board.
#3) The most important ethical code of all (in my opinion of course)… A critic is there for the consumer.

Yes, keeping our integrity as wine critics may be a slippery slope, but if we stick to a few simple principles we can be a trusted source of wine information for our readers. Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

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PICK OF THE MONTH…

Posted on March 1, 2013 by Stan The Wine Man

IMG_0385[1] It’s March and we are no doubt starting to think about cleaning up the BBQ and waiting for that first semi-warm day when we can fire up the grill and cook some ribs or steak (sorry vegetarians…Or Portabella mushrooms). Although we have probably consumed a few bottles of cab over the winter months, there is still nothing better then a good cab to wash down a grilled piece of beef. And, when you can find a good cab for under ten bucks it makes it that much better.

I would like to introduce you to Viano Vineyards located near the town of Martinez in Contra Costa County, California. Viano Vineyards is the oldest producing winery in this county, boasting some vines that are nearly a century old. Because of the families origin going back to Piedmont, Italy they stick to long held traditions in wine making. Dry farming, natural yeasts and small oak barrels have been a staple at this winery for three generations. The result are wines that express the terroir of the vineyards and a sense of “Old World” treatment.

When I first tasted the ’07 Viano cab I was truly impressed, but blown away by the stupid price tag of only eight bucks. It was a no-brainer for my pick of the month.

2007 Viano Vineyards Private Stock Cabernet Sauvignon (Contra Costa County, CA) … $7.99

The aromas alone speak “Old World” to me. Notes of worn leather, rose pedal, tobacco, red & black currants with a backdrop of minerals (crushed rock). On the palate notes of black currants, tobacco and leather hit you up front on smooth tannins. Good balance and flow across the palate with an interesting brightness lying underneath the fruit notes. Leather, tobacco and currants come through to the finish with nice minerality, spice and oak notes that linger. Sometimes it’s hard to find a twenty dollar cab that has this much character to it. If you like old world style wines with just a kiss of the new world, I think you are going to become a fan of this cab. Cheers!

Distributed by Grape Expectations (Seattle, WA)

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TOP 100 WHO?

Posted on February 26, 2013 by Stan The Wine Man

I’ve done a few lists and I have to tell you they are one of the toughest assignments you can give yourself. To tackle the top 100 most influential people in wine has to be practically impossible. That is exactly what Michael Cervin www.intowine.com attempted to do. I say attempted, because the way I see it, it is as flawed a list as I have seen in awhile.

First off, Jancis Robinson is not on the list. How crazy is that? Why not leave Teddy Roosevelt off the list of greatest United States Presidents. In the top ten you have Matt Kramer (Wine Specatator columnist), James Laube (Wine Spectator Columnist) and Marvin Shanken (Editor and Publisher of Wine Spectator). First off, a lot of us bloggers and wine writers do not think as highly of Kramer as he does himself, and I have trouble believing he can influence a child to eat ice cream. I like James Laube (he takes a great photo), but to put him ahead of Kermit Lynch or Steven Tanzer is absolutely ludicrous. Marvin Shanken probably deserves a spot at the top but it had to cost him a lot to get his two buddies up there with him.

One of the more perplexing placements is Annette-Alvares-Peters (Merchandising Manager of spirits/wine/beer for Costco) at #2. You are going to sell a lot of wine at Costco if your name is Casey Anthony. They have a ton of stores, with a ton of customers and their prices are ridunculous. Gee, let me think. Fred Franzia is at #22. I think he is more apt to be on the list of most influential for the use of cosmetics. His wines have more makeup on them then Kim Kardashian. The one that made me laugh until my ribs hurt was the placement of Anthony Blue at #20. This is the guy that bashed wine blogs a couple of years ago and never printed a retraction. He is a fossil in the wine world and the only placement he deserves is in a museum.

Joe Roberts (1Winedude) is at #15. I really think that since he is the wine columnist for Playboy.com #69 might have been a better spot for him. 🙂 Tom Wark ahead of Alice Feiring and Kevin Zraly. Really? The Academy might as well have voted Ted best picture over Argo. Wilfred at #13 might be a wong choice since he is a passenger in a big vehicle that could probably move cases without him. This may be the last year to see Antonio in the top twenty. Just ask Suckling what it’s like to go solo. Was James on that list? I can’t remember. And last but not least, I think that Mr. Vaynerchuk should have been somewhere on there. Because, although he is not in the wine public’s eye right now, his personality hangs around like the smell of ripe cheese.

Like I said, lists are hard to do and they leave you open to scrutiny for any smart-ass critic out there. I admire the effort…But the results are suspect. Cheers! Stanthewineman

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