Stan The Wine Man

This is a very interesting word to use in a wine descriptor because it can relay a variety of implications as to what the reviewer is trying to convey about the wine. It is perhaps one of those words that needs some surrounding context in order to clarify what is being said about the wine in question. Another words, without some further details it can be misconstrued, doing the wine injustice.

For example, let’s say I’m describing a Pinot Noir using the word lithe in the descriptor…

Cherries come through on the palate with hints of raspberry and black tea. Lithe, elegant and clean with a bracing long finish.

In this example, what am I conveying about the wine to my reader? Since I noted that the wine is both clean and bracing on the palate, the use of the word lithe in this case would indicate that it is on the lean side not full-bodied (there is another word for another day). Had I just thrown in the word lithe without any surrounding text to clarify, it may have conveyed something entirely different. What do I mean?

Lithe has a couple of meanings that can be applied to wine. It can mean lean as noted above, or it can mean supple and soft. What if I were to describe a Cabernet Sauvignon using this word without any supporting adjectives?

lithe notes of currants and cherries flow seamlessly across the palate into a pleasing finish.

Am I trying to say here that the fruit notes are lean, or am I trying to convey that they are supple and soft on the palate perhaps lacking structure? I say lacking structure, because lithe can also mean pliable and flexible like a ballerina’s body. I don’t know about you, but when I watch a ballerina I sometimes wonder if they have any muscle or bones (structure). Their flexibility is beyond my comprehension (I have trouble reaching around to scratch my back). Can someone be flexible without being lean? Yes, there are bigger folks out there that have amazing genetics, and are quite flexible. I know this is a stretch (no pun intended) on the word lithe, but I am trying to show the importance of surrounding context when using this word.

It can also be used in conjunction with tannins. Are the tannins supple or pliable, instead of rigid and abrasive? Silky tannins are lithe for sure and unless a writer clarifies this, the meaning will be lost.

I myself have never used this word when describing a wine, but since I have spent some time looking into it, I may use it in the future. If I were to use it, I would more than likely use it to indicate a leaner or lighter style of wine, since I believe that is what most wine reviewers are trying to convey with this word. However, I use the word supple a lot when describing the tannins in a wine. I could substitute lithe instead of supple, but again, this would require some surrounding adjectives to clarify my meaning (do you get my drift here?). It’s a good word for describing a wine, but it requires some effort by the writer to convey to the reader what they are trying to describe.

Wines can be skinny, light, graceful or supple. It’s up to us as wine writers to make sure we convey the correct meaning to our readers so that they understand what we are trying to say. Whoever said that writing is easy, has never written for an audience. I can only hope that I have one myself. Anyway, I hope that in some small way, I have helped you understand the word lithe as it relates to wine.

Cheers! Stan The Wine Man

This is my third attempt at defining the word grip as a wine descriptor. I’m not sure why I am having difficulty with this since I use it all the time, but for some reason I’m finding hard to put into words. Here we go again…

Have you ever had someone grip your hand, arm or shoulder? A grip is much stronger than just a grasp, it’s a firm grasp meant to get your attention, to hold you in place. After someone has gripped you and then released, the feeling of the pressure lingers for a while. Wine can have the same effect on your palate.

In a wine descriptor, nine times out of ten the word “grip” or “grippy” is used in association with the finish. What is meant by grip when used to describe a wine and what causes it? I can almost guarantee that those of you who drink Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux have experienced “grip” in the mouth. Grip is the sensation of a rough sandpaper feel around your gums on the finish. It’s as if someone gripped your gums with a piece of sandpaper and you can’t readily shake the effect it has on your palate. It’s almost like you have sand stuck around your gums. It holds on and doesn’t let go. What causes such a thing in wine, and is it a bad thing?

As most of you have already concluded (and good for you by the way), grip is caused by tannins, wood, skin, seeds and stems. There are some wines that have more tannins than others. Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Syrah and Nebbiolo come in on the high side as far as tannins are concerned. In their youth, many of these wines exhibit a good dose of tannins that will only calm down as the years pass. Open a youthful Barolo and you will understand the meaning of tannic “grip”. The wine will hang on to your palate like a pit bull spitting out a mouthful of sand.

Wines treated in a heavy dose of new oak will also display a healthy amount of grip on the finish, especially if the fruit quality does not match the oak treatment. Wood tannins tend to be much harsher then skin, seed and stem tannins, so they can be harder to tolerate. Oak has its beneficial effects on a wine, but when it dominates the fruit, it can be detrimental to the wine itself.

Grip on the finish of a wine can be a good thing if it is not too harsh. Eventually the fruit will integrate with the tannins, softening them and getting rid of the harsher effects they can have. This can be true with skin or wood tannins alike. Some folks even like a grip feel on the finish and that is OK with me, because I like it if I am in the mood. Grip can be good or bad. It’s a good thing if the wine is well-built and will improve over age. It’s a bad thing if it’s due to over-use of new oak or use of under-ripe grapes.

The next time you drink a red wine (more than likely) and you get that sandpaper feel on your gums, you will understand the word “grip” as a wine descriptor. You may like it or not, that is up to you. A wine with grip on the finish can be a positive or a negative…Time will tell.

Cheers! Stan The Wine Man